Yangon

October 26, 2005
A Provincial City

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

The bottle green of the rice paddies in the distance, touched with early morning clouds lying low to the flat ground, are stroked with the first rays of sunshine. And although the air is already satiated and bursting with warmth I am not overly hot as I clunk down the two-story gangway, small pack across my chest and tennis shoes on my feet. An impression of welcomeness greets me at the air-conditioned bus, the Burmese man in his longyis skirt hands me three small pink roses tied with a pink ribbon. Everyone on the bus has these fragile flowers that have already began to wilt in the intense heat. I place them in a small pouch on the back of the seat, almost as if this is its rightful spot. Later Heather and I remove the outer petals to dry for a memory book, like we did with the marigolds from India.

The one-hour drive to Yangon traverses the fertile delta country of southern Myanmar. And although the population in the city embraces five million, the routines of the people in the villages we pass are careful and meticulous. These people seem very pleasant and friendly, many watching the bus and waving as we pass. Monks, mostly boys between ten and fifteen, stroll the streets for alms and eat from a decorated vessel before returning at noon for their final meal of the day. These boys have shaved heads, darker skin, and red robes twisted around their body. They walk barefoot over the roadways and earthen paths.

We arrived at Chauk Htat Gyi Reclining Buddha, over seventy meters long, for a brief interval to admire the beauty of this central figure. His robes were gold, ears elongated and my favorite embellishment, the aesthetic appeal of golden figures emblazoned on the soles of his feet. I took notice of the elephant in one square, it seems these creatures have become a reminder and emotionally linked to Nana. I have seen them in every port almost and have come to admire the variety of artistic styles utilized to display these gentle giants.

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

We started our morning with a nine o’clock departure from the ship at Thilwa Port to the center of Yangon. Upon boarding the bus the tour agency handed each participant a lovely little bouquet of three pink roses tied with a silk ribbon. The Burmese people are so generous and this small gesture certainly started the day with a positive atmosphere. The drive to the city is quite long, though the scenery is ever changing, from the emerald rice paddies ruffling in the wind to the golden stupas on the hills that I love so much, the monks wrapped in red drapery collecting alms to the early morning activity of the tea shops and local vendors.

Finally arriving in Yangon our first stop was the sixth largest reclining Buddha, the Chauk Htat Gyi Buddha, at seventy meters long. The small mirrors ornamenting the robe reflected the morning sunlight from outside and cast small glitters of gold light onto the delicately painted face. We walked completely around the Buddha, stopping near the feet to climb a wooden platform for perhaps the only photography spot that will capture the entire Buddha in one frame from head to toes. It was very impressive to see the artistry as we walked barefoot on the dusty floor. Upon returning to the bus we were given large moist wipes for our feet, though Megan and I had brought Purell Sanitizing Wipes for the very same purpose we were glad not to have to use our small stash.

Megan writes, “From the Buddha we departed for Sule Pagoda and the Colonial Building. Small shops and a busy intersection, not nearly as impressive as on the postcards, surrounded Sule Pagoda. However, the attractiveness of golden stupas spotting this overgrown city engenders quite a unique atmosphere. With old teak growth you tend to forget you are in a bustling metropolis, an international city.”

Driving through the narrow streets we made our way to Sule Pagoda and the independence monument for a photo stop. Though certainly very small, the pagoda was still an interesting site and indeed made me even more excited to see the Shwedagon Pagoda in the afternoon.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

After several minutes at this photo spot we departed for the National Museum. The only thing truly impressive about this four-story oven was the eight-meter high Lion Throne, used by King Thibaw, the last Burmese king. As the only, only authentic and existent throne surviving it was truly amazing to stare up at the golden ornamentation, picturing some leader dressed in royal splendor.

During lunch at Traders Hotel – the beautiful and most Western accommodations thus far on the journey – rice, vegetables and meat I discovered were all delicious. Nothing was overwhelmingly spicy. Leaving these plush surroundings we ventured back to the Bogyoke Aung San Market, or Scott Market, where Heather and I swerved through vendors and stalls, searching for the Golden Globe. At last we returned to the spot, the friendly face of its owner greeting us with familiarity. The outfits look amazing, golden silk with lightly accentuated colors, that you will get to view really soon as we will become Burmese princesses for Halloween. We know, we have returned to the little girl mentality where ballerinas, princesses and fairies are in abundance. But what else could such a beautiful outfit represent? Besides we know plenty of saris from India are bound to make an appearance. We will most likely wear the jade bracelets as part of the costume, and yes Cherylie Girlie when it comes to jewelry we do not forget you!! Of course, Joe hasn’t made out at all in India or Myanmar, although we have tried to no avail to find spices, hot sauce, and instruments. It seems like they have all but disappeared, as well as tea here in Myanmar. If we get a chance, as we hope to go to Bago, we will have a brief hiatus at a market there and perhaps it will yield better results. We hope to make it up to dad in Vietnam.

Heather writes, “We were given approximately one hour at the National Museum where most importantly we saw the last and only surviving throne of the Burmese monarchy. The eight meter high Lion Throne used by the last Burmese ruler, King Thibaw was perhaps the most elaborate throne imaginable with the intricate craftsmanship seen on the many pagodas of wood and gold. A single room was devoted to the throne and I can only imagine how magnificent it would have been to sit on such an overwhelmingly beautiful seat looking out over your kingdom.”

“After the museum we ate lunch at Traders Hotel in the Myanmar Ballroom where once again rice was the main staple with some less spicy Burmese cuisine. The room was quite fancy with silk cushions and tablecloths and it was nice after yesterday’s teashop experience to see the cleanliness at the hotel.”

From this market we proceeded to our last stop, Shwedagon Pagoda, towering almost ninety-eight meters high above the cityscape. An elevator delivered us to the elaborately constructed hilltop, marbled floor spanning the complex where thousands upon thousands of golden stupas and several red pagodas spanned for as far as the eye could see. It goes without saying that 4531 diamonds, the largest of which is a single seventy-six carat, adorned the main stupa. Heather and I were amazed at every delicate detail, not one spot overlooked. It was like snorkeling in Mauritius where so many fish surrounded the boat you didn’t have to look through the camera, you were bound to capture something. We caught some of the sunset between the rows of pagodas, the camera capturing the sparkle of the suns last grasp to this amazing site.

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

Our next stop took us back to the Bogyoke Aung San Market where Megan and I, by some stroke of good luck found the same shop that we had bought our dresses from, and they are beautiful. We both chose a gold silk with gold embroidery, though Megan chose a green accent and I chose a blue. The seamstress laughed yesterday at the almost identical measurements and upon returning to the room later we believe that the fabrics and measurements were switched – Megan’s top too snug and mine too loose. So we switched and they fit perfectly, I am sure that we were destined to have the opposite fabric anyway. They are quite similar so we are not displeased; we actually feel like a Burmese princess and I cannot wait to take a picture on Halloween to post on the blog as we have decided to show off our new gowns, mostly because everyone else will be wearing their saris and tailored suits.

We also found some of the cutest skirts that we have been trying to find since Brazil and each of us bought two and they are so colorful. The skirts are long and each a single color, pink, purple, blue, and orange. Our last purchase of the day was some very cute beaded pouches like a change purse, and of course there is one for mom. (Note: We did buy a jade bracelet for you mom when we bought ours. You told us whatever we bought ourselves to buy you and we have followed this rule quite literally, except where we are absolutely sure you would not want something. Don’t worry we are not stupid, and you will love the jade bangle; it is gorgeous.)

Our last stop was the Shwedagon Pagoda and it was certainly a site with hundreds of golden stupas and indeed the most beautiful at three hundred twenty six feet high and topped by a seventy-six carat diamond and four thousand five hundred thirty one smaller diamonds. Walking around it clockwise we could not help but pick our jaws off the ground as each new wonder flashed before our eyes. You will have to imagine intricate gold work pagodas, and hundreds of gold stupas glinting in the dying sun. The monks walked throughout the complex and each stupa held a different image of Buddha. We are going to see the pagoda at sunset tomorrow and so hopefully we will have some really awesome photos.

Megan writes, “Tomorrow we will return to this Pagoda for out Semester at Sea trip, Sunset at Shwedagon Pagoda. It will give us an opportunity to take pictures of ourselves as we decided after a hot day we looked quite shabby. Since the trip tomorrow will be just to this site, we will be a little more orderly in appearance.”

At last we returned to the ship to find out new restrictions on water usage. At ten o’clock in the evening the water was turned off and so we both had time to shower and wash some jeans and other items. Tomorrow we will take care of our pictures and do some minor studying before seeing the pagoda at night. After dinner Megan and I were once again tempted by the smell of popcorn and just had to buy some to watch with Sweet November. It was fantastic. Popcorn has never tasted so good. You will have to imagine what it is like not to eat your favorite food, especially desserts and snacks for three months and then you will have an idea of how much this popcorn meant to us. Stay tuned for more…

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

We traveled back to the ship in the dark, small trucks in front of us packed with so many passengers returning to their villages from the city; many of the men in their longyis holding on to the back and standing on a small platform.

I could see the lights of the ship as we neared, exhausted and ready for sleep. An announcement declared the limitations of water beginning. At ten the water was turned off. Heather and I had showered and washed more laundry. Although we have since discovered that the 27th and 28th will only have water returned between six and nine o’clock in the evening. This means showers, hand-washing more laundry, and filling every spare bottle with tap water for the toilets to use throughout the following day – also to brush teeth and wash our face. Because of the one-day leap from India to Myanmar the tanks were not filled completely and water is at an all time low.

Good night at home, and as you read this, good morning for me.