Out of Africa Into Mauritius

Okay, so we are posting about the last five days, three at sea and two in Cape Town. As we have not posted in quite a few days and we are very tired we have posted these entries as two separate pieces, one is Heather’s and one is Megan’s. We wanted to keep everyone up to date at home, but it takes entirely too long to combine these two entries into one flowing piece. Sorry if this confuses anyone, but it has been a very long day as you will read and we want to go to bed.

Heather’s Entry:

September 23, 2005
At Sea

The weather has been getting cooler as we make our way towards Cape Town and their spring season. We can expect temperatures in the high sixties and seventies, which should be a welcome change to the stifling heat of the past two ports. I am so excited and cannot believe that we will be in South Africa in two days and then on to Kenya.

I have finished using all of my Internet time, so we are going to switch to Megan’s and hope that it lasts another month. Today was our day to go to Purser’s Square and fill out a dozen or so immigration forms and arrival/departure papers that took about an hour, as they have been herding the students in groups to the Purser’s Desk based on identification numbers all week to complete these forms. I am so glad that the majority of the paperwork is complete for our trip. The last time I remember signing my name that much was when we bought my car.

Archbishop Desmond Tutu had a reception in the Union today, which we assumed to be a meet and greet for photo opportunities and such, but as it turns out it was a question and answer session. Unfortunately we had class during the allotted time. Since it was something totally different than what I expected it is no great loss, as he will be speaking tomorrow in class. We plan to arrive two hours in advance to get the best seats in the house.

Many of the students in our Field Methods class, which met during the same time as the reception, ditched class to see the Archbishop. Professor Smyth ultimately decided that with only a couple of students present for lecture that anyone who wanted to stay was welcome and whoever wanted to leave was permitted to do so. Obviously, Megan and I were the only two, but it was a great chance to learn about Picasa, which is a photo-editing program that we have access to on the ship. It is a really great program and we learned so much. In fact, Professor Smyth was so helpful, that we figured out how to resize a picture in terms of bytes and upload it to our blog. So, finally here come the pictures! I know that everyone has been anxiously awaiting the posting of visual references to go with our adventures.

After eating dinner, Ormond came over to clear our plates, and surprise, he brought us two chocolate chip cookies each! Yum. I was so surprised, but it really made my day and they were delicious – soft and chewy. I felt so special being one of two people on the entire ship with chocolate chip cookies and not the pineapple upside down cake that was served for dessert this evening.

We decided to watch a movie tonight, however, when it was time to come on they had switched what we thought was being broadcast to something else we had no interest in seeing, so we went to bed instead.

September 24, 2005
At Sea – Good News and Bad

The good news today is that we only have one more day until South Africa. We have so many things planned, including Boulder Beach to swim with the penguins, the Kirstenbosch Gardens, Groot Constantia Wine Estate, Seal Island, Township visits, Museum visit, Table Mountain, and shopping at the V&A Waterfront. Hopefully we can fit all of that in five days.

I used my special teabag from home today, and it was definitely a welcome treat in comparison to the bland Lipton teabags on the ship. Although they do have other teas at the snack bar and pool bistro, but I plan to buy some tea in Cape Town on our arrival, which reminds me that our visit to the tea farm in Kenya is no longer, which is explained in this entry.

The wave height is almost ten feet, with predictions for choppier seas and larger waves before we arrive. The swells seem to be rising over the ship and splashing against bulkheads. Desmond Tutu spoke in Global Studies today and it was an excellent lecture from our honored guest. We took tons of pictures and movies in the hope that at least one will turn out. His laugh is infectious and just thinking about it makes me smile, not to mention that I caught it on my movie recording and hope to share it with everyone at home, which I am sure will receive just as many laughs as it did for the students present.

At the end of class, and now the bad news, Executive Dean John, had a message for the shipboard community. He was practically in tears and so were we. No Kenya. They received news last night that there is an increase in piracy and potential risks from terrorists on marine vessels with no distinction between military vessels and passenger ships. As such we are not going to stop in Kenya or any other location in Africa on the eastern coast of the country. I cannot even scratch the surface of the emotional impact this announcement had. I was looking forward to Kenya the most and now we have no idea where our fourth port will be. We will find out tomorrow, though we are assured that our stay in Cape Town and our future stop at India will remain as scheduled. Many people are thinking Madagascar or a grouping of islands that I have never heard of. I called home immediately, miscalculating the time difference; it was six in the morning at home, and almost lunchtime on the MV Explorer. I think that this country meant so much to me because Nana really wanted us to go to Kenya on a safari and a hot air balloon ride over the Mara. It really has not sunk in yet, and I don’t think it will until we learn of the alternative port and the opportunities we will have there.

We have also heard some rumors, though not confirmed, or at least speculations that we may be diverted from Myanmar. Again, this is not confirmed. We also learned of a Japanese Encephalitis outbreak in India. It will not really affect us, though Agra and Delhi are on the outskirts of the specified areas. We had to make a decision by the afternoon yesterday if we wanted to receive the vaccinations. Unfortunately having the shots does not guarantee protection. The ship needed to order the vaccine so that it would arrive in Cape Town. It is a set of three shots that are administered on a specific schedule, the first being the day we arrive in Africa. We opted not to get the vaccine because the clinic seemed to suggest that wearing long pants and long sleeves was adequate protection with the addition of bug repellant. It is transmitted by a mosquito and it costs a grand total of four hundred dollars for the regiment.

I am so disappointed that we are not going to Kenya and hope that the replacement will be at least half as grand as a safari. So the mood on the ship is definitely subdued and expectant. I cannot believe that the one place I really wanted to see with all my heart and experience every blade of grass and cloud in a hopefully cloudless blue sky, not to mention giraffes, elephants, and lions, is no longer apart of this voyage of discovery. I am not sure if I want to cry or sulk, but hope that Cape Town and the wonderful experiences awaiting us will take my mind off of this truly unexpected setback.

Tonight we have Cultural Pre-port and the Bering Sea is having a movie night in the Union afterwards, though the comedy of choice will be chosen democratically. We are going to discuss the upcoming Sea Olympics and how we are going to win, and then eat cookies and enjoy a movie.

At the Pre-port gathering I sat right next to Desmond Tutu. Not three seats, right next to the Archbishop and his wife! When the choir sang the national anthem, in four languages, he sang right along. He is so expressive and genuine. When he sat down he said, “Twins! Hello!” I don’t know what it is about him but he is so bubbly and warm and I don’t think I stopped smiling the entire time he was there. Though I am sad to report that I still don’t have a picture with him yet.

September 25, 2001
Bye Bye Kenya – Hello ?

? This seems to be the social topic of the day. Where are we going? We started out the day just like any other day, but with the constant voice in our heads saying this and that about our prospects for the fourth port of call. So the list ranges from, and some of them are really silly, Iran, Pakistan, Antarctica, Australia, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, and many others, including other countries in Africa. Of course this is all speculation. I was thinking about my voyage T-shirt that I bought at the beginning of the voyage and the fact that it is wrong because we are no longer going to Africa. I have a feeling that because it is Sunday we will not find out until tomorrow or until the last day in Cape Town.

On a more positive note…we arrive in Cape Town tomorrow, and the seas are pretty rough. Classes were great today with a lecture on the food of Africa in Global Studies, the return of our papers in Tourism, and a talk from the photographer in Field Methods with some awesome tips on taking photos and ethics. I am really impressed with the caliber of the staff; the photographer has taken pictures of September eleventh, the pope, and Hollywood’s finest. Our Travelers’ Journals professor works for the Los Angeles Times and is using this trip for some assignments on travel covering the places we are visiting. Incidentally, I received an A on my Tourism essay and I am very pleased. He actually had Megan read her essay and I think that she really nailed the assignment with descriptive prose. My topic was a tad bit more factual.

Desmond Tutu sat at the table next to us for lunch and after completing his meal we finally got a picture with him that is so cute. I have already printed it out and magnetized it to the wall.

At four o’clock Megan and I attended the last NOAA drifter deployment, which is the one thousand two hundred forty ninth drifters out of the one thousand two hundred and fifty that they plan to deploy. Desmond Tutu and Captain Jeremy had the honor of deployment, dropping the drifter off the fantail into the choppy surf. We also got some great pictures of all the action as Desmond Tutu signed the floater that has been adopted by a school in Cape Town and a school in Virginia. Incidentally, Desmond Tutu danced around the back of the deck; swing his arms, and laughing, as salty spray and intense winds rocked the ship. You had to be there, but it was great.

The weather is getting colder; somewhere in the sixties, and I have a feeling that I may be wearing some of my long-sleeved shirts in Cape Town and be forced to wear a wetsuit when swimming with the penguins. Tonight we have Pre-port Logistics and had a conversation with out Global Studies professor who went to Maryland and grew up in Baltimore. We had fun chatting about Aberdeen and Havre de Grace and how they have developed since he was last in the area. We will be saying goodbye to our honored guest tonight and hopefully there is something fantastic planned for his departure.

Desmond Tutu said some final words tonight and received some gifts from the shipboard community, including the voyage book, which was signed by all of the students. We signed on the first page! Tomorrow we arrive in Cape Town and as of yet we still have no idea where we are going next. I can’t wait to find out.

September 26, 2005
South Africa

Good morning South Africa! When we awoke this morning at six o’clock we were greeted with the beautiful landscape of Africa and the rising sun. We were pulling into the harbor and the clouds were just settling over Table Mountain, forming what the locals call the “Tablecloth,” as I assume that some giants of old are probably sitting down to breakfast at the mount. As we pulled into the waterfront the swells became quite intense. Luckily Megan had secured everything the night before, except for the hundreds of bottles in the bathroom cabinet, which was completely trashed. I stubbed my foot on the ledge in the shower, and again on my flip-flip and my empty cup on the nightstand went sliding to the floor. When we arrived for breakfast the entire contents of one table, about six plates of food, and cups were littered on the carpet. Apparently the mess came along with a rather loud clash.

Once the ship was cleared we went back to our cabin to look out the window. We have the most amazing view of the V&A Waterfront and Table Mountain. How lucky are we that the port side is facing the city? It is so beautiful with all the shops, and after about an hour of other students pushing their way off in a huge crowd, we disembarked and walked around the waterfront. This is the first place that I feel completely safe to walk around, just the two of us. There are so many restaurants within feet of the ship, and all of the shops are just as close. I had no idea that we would be right at the waterfront. We waited for about an hour in a line at the currency exchange counter as the students in front of us cashed travelers checks and used their credit or debit cards to get money. I have to say that cash is definitely the way to go when changing currency. Everything else requires a passport and extensive phone calls to credit card companies. After getting our money changed we did a little shopping for the first item we have bought in each port – postcards and stamps. Of course we found many other things, some we bought now, and some we will wait to buy, and many things with giraffes on them, which means that Megan bought them all! Ha ha ha.

After lunch on the ship we had a trip to the University of Cape Town followed by a museum to meet Gavin Younge, who wrote Art of the South African Township. It was supposed to be a fairly interesting trip to begin with though ended in disaster. We finally met the Art History professor and is incredibly nice. She would like to get the Art History majors, there are about five, together for dinner. Unfortunately this trip was originally scheduled for Thursday and then moved to Monday, which ultimately means someone messed up. If we had not checked our tickets we would have missed it. I guess that in all of the confusion they forget to check the museum hours as it was closed and we are told that we should expect some sort of a refund. All in all we felt as if we had wasted much of the day and did not really do anything of significance except stand in line at the currency exchange counter and sit on a tour bus. So we did some more shopping upon our return to the waterfront, and dad made out good. Sorry that is all I can say!

The biggest news of the day was our upcoming port of call. We are going to extend our stay in Cape Town for two days, leaving on the second of October, and heading toward Mauritius, a small island that we will arrive at on the ninth of October for three days. Whereas the weather is quite nippy here at times, the weather on the island will be in the nineties and rumor has it that there are white sandy beaches and the bluest water you have ever seen. I guess that means three days of sun, three days of sand, and three days of snorkeling. I’ll let you know about the water and if it really is as blue as they say.

September 27, 2005
Nature Tour

When we left the ship this morning there was a beautiful rainbow over Signal Hill, one of the most vibrant and bright I have ever seen. We began our Nature Tour with a ride to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens on the other side of Table Mountain. Almost the second we arrived it started to rain, and we pulled on our jackets, rolled up our blue jeans, and secured our hoods over our heads. It was not a very intense rain, and did not last too terribly long, but the wind made it impossible to use an umbrella. It came to a halt about halfway through our tour of the grounds, which left everything in a sparkle of raindrops and the waterfalls spilling over stone paths in a stream. We took some really great pictures! The plants were beautiful, green, and exotic. They have the cutest tree that looks a little bit like a palm but much smaller that I absolutely love. The grounds are expansive and the plants various. It seemed as if we walked on forever amongst the flowers, green lawns, and stone paths strategically placed in streambeds. I have to say it was exhilarating and far more extensive than I could go into in this entry.

Our second stop was relatively close by and was the long awaited Groot Constantia Wine Estate. It is the oldest estate and manor house and we sampled four of the wines, a white, blush, red, and dessert. I would find it very difficult to say which was my favorite, probably the red or the blush, well I don’t know. They were all very good, except for the dessert. It was the color of amber and very sweet owing to the fact that it was flavored with honey. I definitely had to pucker my mouth on that one. Each time they brought around another sample, one of the two adults passengers that we sat with, one is a professor and the other is the wife of the professor we were suppose to do the snorkeling with in Kenya, would guess the ingredients of the wine. In an English accent he would say, “hazelnut, I think,” or “oh yes, very smoky that one.” It was a laugh and we got to keep our glasses that are inscribed with the crest of the estate.

Last but not least we went to Seal Island. It was about a forty-five minute trip by boat to the island and the swells were very rough. By the time we arrived at the island I was dreaming of land, and by the time that we left I was wondering if we would ever see flat land again. I have never been so afraid that a boat would flip over and I am sure I played the scene over and over in my head a thousand times. But we did make it back, and just in time, as I am sure that I was quite green in the gills and my stomach was none to happy either. Seal Island was covered in hundreds of the seals and the most striking aspect was most assuredly the horrendous stench. On our way back to the dock we spotted whales and managed to get some pictures.

Finally we returned to the ship, tired, and not feeling too hot. We downloaded our photos, about five hundred between the two of us, onto our laptops. Is that enough pictures for one day dad? I know you wanted us to take a lot! We went to dinner, had a chat with Betty and Bob and another couple and talked to Martina about safaris in South Africa. It is basically a waste of time to do one independently and also a waste to do one in South Africa. There are no elephants and no giraffes and very few animals. Betty told us that Boulder Beach was a must and that the penguins are so cute. She said, “They don’t run very fast so you can get some really good pictures.” We are going to meet a couple of the adult passengers for breakfast on Thursday and go to Table Mountain together, which is so exciting.

Tomorrow we will be traveling to a township and I am not sure what to expect. We drove past one today, and my mouth dropped open. But more on this tomorrow when I really experience the townships in full. Good night Africa, good night Cape Town, and good night everyone.

Megan’s Entry:

September 23, 2005
At Sea

Looking out the window of our room I can see rolling hills of blue water for miles and miles, or at least until the sea meets the sky. It has been downcast for a day or so now and today seems to be beginning in much the same vein.

Heather and I went to Purser’s square to get our packet of immigration forms for the remainder of the trip: 2 Kenya forms, 4 Myanmar, 2 Japan, and 2 Indian and 1 or 2 Vietnam. Anyway, it took an hour before Global Studies and an hour after Global Studies to complete.

Our class in the afternoon, Field Methods, was ended quickly when only four students made an appearance. Desmond Tutu was doing a question and answer session in the Union. Heather and I went at 2:00 but left around 2:10 for class. I know, class over Desmond Tutu, but the room was crammed like a can of sardines. His main lecture will be tomorrow and we will arrive early to get good seats.

At dinner Ormond brought Heather and I, what else, but chocolate chip cookies. We tried to hide them at our table alone so that no one would try to snag them. Yum, yum, yummy!

September 24, 2005
Desmond Tutu

After a quick breakfast, cereal, Heather and I headed to the Union around eight o’clock. Sitting in the front row, a great view, minus the students who came and sat on the floor practically on top of Archbishop Tutu with baseball caps on which I thought particularly disrespectful. We took a lot of pictures and tapped some of his speech and hopefully they will turn out descent enough in the awkward lighting of the Union.

His speech was phenomenal and my only regret, still, is not having a photo with him. His exits, apparently, have become perfected to an art form. Gracious and friendly he leaves, making a brief pause to shake a hand, smile widely, or accept some remark. No pictures, no signature on my book. But, in light of that, he is here, and I am here, and the memory is the most important. His laughter during his speech was unforgettable.

Several people in my Travelers’ Journals class have told me how wonderful my presentation has been. But, whew! I am finished…so here I come South Africa.

On a different note, After Desmond Tutu’s speech, Dean Tymitz, stuttering and frowning, almost in tears it seemed, reminded us of two things: 1) The safety of the passengers, faculty and crew was the most important, and 2) Flexibility is the buzzword for Semester at Sea. We are not going to Kenya. That’s it…not going. Still when I write it down it seems unreal, not having sunk in. WE ARE NOT GOING TO KENYA! Maybe I should say it out loud. No luck.

What hurts the most is this port meant the most to me, not only with my studies with African Art History, but with my connection to my grandmother. No more giraffes, lions, tigers or bears…okay, no bears to begin with. I will get to Kenya in my life, I know it. It feels a little like I have broken a promise, thrown a dream to the wayside. Perhaps I felt being there would be bringing me nearer to her. Before she passed away she shared stories about the Maasai and her various safaris. Perhaps I should mention, though it is only hearsay and rumor and not a fact, that there still exists a possibility that our stop in Myanmar will be diverted as well. Flexibility. I believe I am at a loss for words. But I am still happy.

We ate dinner with Bob and Betty. They sing tonight at the cultural pre-port and I cannot wait to hear the South African National Anthem in four languages. I will try to make up for the removal of Kenya on Victoria and Alfred waterfront by buying lots of pieces of art from all over Africa, not to mention spending lots and lots of money.

After cultural pre-port, the Bearing Sea, our sea, has a meeting to discuss the Sea Olympics and then a movie, to be decided democratically. AND COOKIES!!! The sea wave height was around 9-10 feet today and is definitely said to be getting more turbulent as we near the tip of Africa. We were told to secure all things in our cabins, items off exposed surfaces, everything in either drawers or the closet.

Desmond Tutu sang the national anthem along with the choir as everyone stood and I was almost moved to tears at the conclusion when he went and hugged and kissed everyone in the group. If only I could sing. He is so delightful.

One more time to lose an hour and then we are in Cape Town. Good Night.

September 25, 2005
Rocking and Rolling

Salt covers the surface of our window and as such makes it extremely difficult to sea anything. Even if the position report says it is six or seven foot waves, I know that when they took the measurement it must have been the low point of the day as the sliding across the deck and stumbling over tables has been extreme. Our nightstand drawers seem to be opening and closing of their own accord. We have a poltergeist apparently.

Here is the rundown of ports as a possibility that have been circulating among the students and also written on a paper at the Field Office. It is interesting to see some of the bizarre places people are guessing. I am a little excited to find out with so many ridiculous options: Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Seychelles, Mauritius, Antarctica, Oman, somewhere in Malaysia, Australia, Tanzania and Egypt (which can’t possibly count as they are on the east coast of Africa), and London (yeah right). You could say some people are not taking into account the position of the ship or where things are placed on the world map.

In Anthropology of Field Methods we received our papers back, my grade being an A+! I was so excited – for a brief second – before our professor asked me to read mine to the class. Great, just what I wanted, to read five pages to a class without any preparation and with no one before or after sharing theirs. I will include a posting of the paper after I reformat so that it is not double-spaced.

After finishing lunch Desmond Tutu and his wife appeared and sat at a table next to ours. We, finally, as they were leaving got a picture. While it is perhaps not the greatest photo with the awkward lighting of the dining hall, I am so glad to have finally gotten a photo.

When Anthropology of Field Methods concluded Heather and I went to the fantail of deck four for the deployment of a drifter. Our first time on the fantail of deck four and what an experience. The waves were rolling against the back of the ship, spray raining across the deck. With only about twenty people, or less, we were graced with not only Desmond Tutu and his wife, but the Captain as well. It felt like a secret meeting and I was thrilled to not have hundreds of other students around. Both the Captain and Desmond Tutu, who would drop this very special equipment into the turbulent sea, signed the drifter. NOAA is employing 1250 drifters into the ocean and this was number 1249. Nothing would have made this experience more perfect, not even if it was number 1250.

Heather and I have found our way to the Union after dinner for the pre-port logistics meeting and the farewell to our guests. We signed a book for Desmond Tutu at the Field Office desk. It will be a change to see him go, but a brief hiatus in South Africa will fill the void. I am writing my journal and drinking hot tea. Tomorrow I will open my card for South Africa.

There are so many thoughts on my mind as everyone here, I am sure, is on the same boat. SHIP!!! Hopefully soon it will all be resolved and we will be on our way. Tomorrow in Cape Town we hope to take the cable car to the top of Table Mountain and do some leisurely shopping. Watch out large boxes will soon be falling from the sky in Aberdeen shipped from Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. Perhaps not, but I do intend to shop, shop, shop.

September 26, 2005
Art & Society What?

After pre-port logistics last night we realized, thankfully, that the art and society in South Africa field directed practicum had been moved from Thursday to today at one thirty. As such we disembarked around eleven, after waiting and waiting and waiting in a line with seven hundred other people exiting the two-story gangway. We walked down the Victoria and Alfred waterfront and changed some money, which took about an hour.

So many shops, so many things to do. Everything is so colorful and comfortable, though the weather is a little chilly. The cobbled roads, palm spattered landscape, and Table Mountain make this a beautiful port. We managed to purchase postcards and stamps. This time, unlike in the previous ports, we actually purchased six different postcards. Now all we have to do is decide who gets which one. In the last two ports we have generally selected only two images.

The Field Directed Practicum was a big washout waiting to happen. We went to the University of Cape Town for a lecture with Gavin Younge. His presentation though was hardly enjoyable as it seemed he had prepared for a group of experts in the field of African art history and various ideas of identity. Even I had an extremely difficult time keeping up with his terminology and technical presentation. As one of the only two art history students and the only African art student out of ten participants, I was not terribly impressed. Sure, he is a wonderful sculptor and obviously intelligent but his presentation was geared to a more sophisticated and learned audience.

From there we left for the museum, but guess what? The museum is closed on Monday. You would think that if they changed the date of the trip they would have checked such an important detail. At least the cost of the ticket was to be out of pocket and as the museum was closed we did not loose additional money.

We went back to the pier around four o’clock, ate dinner, prepared some items for the following day and of course, spent some time discussing the most recent news. We will be staying in Cape Town for two additional days, until October 2, 2005. Then we will set a course for Mauritius, an island close to Madagascar and spend three days there from October 9th to the 11th. Supposedly the beaches are beautiful, the shopping superb, and snorkeling quite good. If only they could add a safari we could call it Kenya, as my plans in Kenya consisted of visiting beaches, snorkeling, shopping, safari and hot air balloon.

We went out to the Victoria Wharf and bought a couple things. There are so many masks and pieces of art I have studied. Heather needs a leash to keep me moving in the shops, as I tend to stop and drool at each one. My wish list would include: Chi-wara mask, Mwashamboy mask, Bwoom mask, Akua-ba, Ere Ibeji, and Kwifo mask, all of which mean absolutely nothing I am sure to anyone else.

We purchased a phone card but went to bed and set our alarm for one o’clock in the morning so we could call Mom and Dad at their seven o’clock. The time went by too quickly but I was so happy to hear their voices. It was so hard to get back to sleep after that point but I managed.

September 27, 2005
Nature Tour

Outside the ship at eight thirty in the morning and the most amazing site greets me, a rainbow. I believe we have had about six or seven rainbows so far: one in Brazil, one on Neptune’s day, and two today that I can recall. Even though the sun was shining it rained a good bit. Our first stop was Kirstenbosch Gardens. Intermittent showers interrupted the wonderful vista of indigenous plants. Never could I put into words the incredible trees, flowers, and other vegetation that is native to this region. Vista upon vista of vibrant flowers, carpeted green grass, palm trees, short trees, cacti-like trees but not cacti at all, and small winding paths. Perhaps the most interesting were the elephant lavender. Ironically, the flower smells like elephant droppings. Heather and I wore long pants and a long-sleeve tunic, but ended up putting on jackets, with hoods up, and rolling up our pants. In these costume we looked quite funny and the pictures we took are cute.

After the tour we headed to Groot Constantia, the oldest manor and vineyard. Inside we attended a wine tasting, four wines, a white, blushing, red and dessert, which were all really nice. My favorites would have to be the blushing and red. We toured the manor house and cellar. It was an enjoyable experience and the scenery was fabulous. Every landscape around Cape Town has a view of Table Mountain, thus everything is framed in its presence.

Our last stop, Hout Bay. There we boarded a boat for Seal Island. Never have I been so uncomfortable in a boat. I thought for sure we would flip over, as each large swell would send us up and teetering down with a crash. The seals were indeed a sight, however far more smelly. The best reward were the two right whales that made an appearance on our return to the marina. By this point of course I am trying to contain myself with each thump of the boat and surges that sent us pitching from side to side. All this after a wine tasting. Perhaps I should have slept on the bus? In one word, never.

Back at the ship I went to dinner, corn chowder was the soup, and talked with Betty and Bob and two other adult passengers who I am remiss in remembering their names. The two, whose name I cannot recall, are going to Table Mountain Thursday morning and asked if we were interested. We will take a taxi together and get a cable car to the top. At least one of the two things we wanted to see is assured. The other, Boulder Beach, we will have to keep inquiring if anyone else is interested. All four of them had gone to Boulder Beach today and told us it was wonderful and the penguins were adorable.

I have decided to forget a safari. There are only two options for such a trip. The first is to fly to Johannesburg and go to Kruger National Park. Look at a map, please, it is not something I would do individually. It is expensive and there are too many things to take into account. Option two is a private game drive about two hours away but the only animals are rhino, antelope, eland, and zebra. No elephants and no giraffes. This does not sound like a safari to me. There is plenty of wonderful things to do in Cape Town, even right here on the waterfront.

I am exhausted and ready for bed. Tomorrow we visit several townships under the guidance of the Amy Biehl Foundation and I am sure it will be a long day.