A Little R&R on V&A

September 29, 2005
Table Mountain

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

The giants on Table Mountain skipped breakfast today apparently as not one cloud, not one at all, covered the plateau of the mount, the proverbial tablecloth nowhere in sight. As a matter of fact, the sky was utterly empty stretching blue for miles and miles. Bob and Betty decided to join our group for such a wonderful morning as the two of us and Mary and Willie, the other two adult passengers, departed the MV Explorer for the cableway. Another adult passenger, Martin, opted to join us as well making the grand total seven. We found a taxi to accommodate all of us and soon were whisked through the beautiful streets and colorful homes to the entrance to the cable cars. Paying the student discount of eighty rands, not just Heather and I, but everyone else as well, we were led through the enormous line due to Willie and his cane. He says we all owe him a lot, which I guess we do, as we would have waited forever in the monstrosity of a procession. And yes, the other five in our group are senior passengers, but they all take classes on board, or at least audit them, so we laughed at the fact we all paid student prices.

The view was incredible, all the places I have visited, Hout Bay, Kirstenbosch, Groot Constantia, the open sea, all visible. Bob saw some dassies but we did not. We remained on the top for about an hour and a half before joining up again with everyone as we all tended to wander off on small paths and lookout points.

On our way down in the cable car we told Betty about the safari that we had booked. Janet Eastman had briefly mentioned the trip to them, but as she was leaving for a tour could not say much. Betty inquired if Bob would want to do a safari and we soon found ourselves dropped off from the taxi at the clock tower shopping mall and tourism center. We accompanied Betty and Bob, the other three leaving us on their own pursuits in the waterfront, to the same desk we booked our safari. They will join us for a day of adventure bright and early Sunday. I am thrilled to have them along and cannot wait to share this experience.

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

We started out the day by enjoying breakfast with Willie, Mary Louise, and Martin, before heading to the top of Table Mountain. We were blessed with the bluest of skies since our arrival and not a cloud in the sky making it by far the best day to take the cable car to the top. It has been getting progressively warmer over the last couple of days, which makes it extremely difficult to figure out what to wear since we do not get any weather on the ship. Before disembarking, what was originally four, became a group of seven with the addition of Bob, Betty, and Martin. We got a van to the aerial car and it must have been so strange to the people at the ticket booth to have five senior citizens claiming to be students with the Explorer ID cards. In the end we all passed as students, paying a discounted price, and hopped into the cable car to the top of the mount. It held sixty-five people, not like the small ones in Caracas at Mt. Avila, and the floor rotated for a three hundred sixty degree view of the ascent.

I have never seen the sky so blue, and we had the best view imaginable of Hout Bay, Cape Point and the Waterfront. In fact, as we made our way around the mountain we saw the city on all sides and a very impressive vista of the sea and the MV Explorer far below looking like a toy boat.

We made some purchases at the Shop on the Top, mostly for dad, and spent an hour looking for the cute little dassies – though no luck there. After making our way down by way of the aerial car we found another van to take us back to the waterfront and more specifically the clock tower precinct. The group split up at this point with the exception of our adopted family members, Betty and Bob. We told them about the safari we booked for Sunday and they were so excited that we showed them the Cape Tourism Center and they decided to join us for a day full of giraffes, lions, giraffes, zebras, giraffes, antelopes, and giraffes. And as Bob put it when he read the pamphlet, “and cocktails at lookout points, oh my,” with a smile.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

We were all hungry after our expedition on the mountain and went to Rootis for lunch on the waterfront. I had a sandwich and diet coke, or as the can says in South Africa, Coca Cola light. I thought about Nana, sitting there with my adopted family. She would have loved this. A group performed on the cobbled space alongside the red clock tower and we enjoyed their chanting and dancing. The music was incredible and I would love to find some equivalent on compact disc. After an enjoyable lunch Betty and Bob went into the clock tower mall to do some shopping and we made our way to the blue shed craft market. On a side note, a man playing an Afri-can, an electric guitar, was outside and his jazzy light music drifted through the little streets adding such amazing charm to the colorful architecture.

Yes, I have now fulfilled every wish, every sight I would have seen in Kenya. Perhaps not, but as I am going on a safari I feel wonderful. Additionally, a man dressed like a Maasai was leaving the market as we were entering. Heather and I could not help but stare slightly, unsure whether he was an artisan or just a person dressed in costume for the waterfront entertainment.

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

We ate lunch together at Rooti’s, a restaurant specializing in Cape Malay Cuisine, though I have no idea what that means. I had a chicken and mayo as the Africans put it, which translates to chicken salad, but by far the best chicken salad I have ever had. It was sweet and the French fries were more like oversized wedges. Bob had an African dessert that is similar to a wheat donut with glaze and coconut. We had a toast to the safari and were entertained by African singers who danced around the small square by the restaurant.

After lunch Megan and I did some more shopping, making purchases at the craft market, and an art store, where Megan finally convinced me to purchase something for myself, and I am so happy with my choice. Mom, the only hint I can give is that you should read through my chapbook and perhaps there is a story in there that may give you an idea what I bought in Africa. Let me know if you figure it out. Megan of course made sure that I bought the most authentic souveniour we could find owing to the fact that she studies African art. Then we made one more purchase in the clock tower for mom before heading back to the Victoria Mall to make the most important decision of the trip thus far. Should we purchase the Chi-wara mask? Yes. Well we did and then found ourselves eating dinner at St. Elmo’s feeling very rotten, I guess buyer’s remorse, but we are definitely feeling better now. We went back to the store after eating and they had wrapped it up beautifully, first in bubble wrap, then with cardboard reinforcements and then a general brown paper wrapping with handles. It is now tucked away beneath the bed after a short trip back to the ship, and an even longer one at the security checkpoint to scan the package. We had thought about sending it home, but after hearing that it would cost an exorbitant amount plus insurance, not to mention the risk, we decided it was best to keep it within our sight. So, we surely cannot wait for dad to greet us at the dock so that he can carry it for us. Consider it a necessary task to get all your wonderful souvenirs.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

(Paragraph censored for shopping purchases)

Then Heather took me back to the store with the Chi-wara mask and many others for me to make up my mind. I know that no matter what I could never settle for another mask. I would regret it for the rest of my life. I also realize how expensive the mask is and that it is quite large. The woman spoke to us about the piece and said it would be really expensive to ship and insure. Instead, we bought the mask and had them wrap it while we went to eat at St. Elmo’s Wood Fired Pizzeria. Well, its here! Under the bed in my cabin is a Chi-wara mask wrapped in bubble, cardboard and brown paper so perfectly I am amazed. There is no way such a piece could break. Its shape looks like a guitar, or so I have been told all wrapped up. I am a little nervous about getting it home, but I was told if students carry their six-foot giraffes off the ship and have them put in the closet on the airplane, than so can my mask. I feel guilty about spending the money, although I have not spent very much at any of the other ports and most likely will not in the next several countries.

Heather really wanted me to get the mask, and I did too of course, but I feel guilt-ridden about my purchase. I keep playing through my mind the image of the headdress and each time can’t help feeling doubtful. Should I have settled for something less, something smaller, something more generic? I don’t know. Masks are plentiful here and so many look alike. It is akin to all the six-foot giraffes that have apparently made their way onboard, but I feel like I have a true understanding of the piece and am, at the very least, original in my purchase.


Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

We have two days of nothing planned before our safari and the only thing we really want to do is go to the grocery store and out to dinner. I thought a lot about Nana today, especially as we were looking out over Cape Town at Table Mountain, though I have certainly thought about her a lot since we started our voyage. I find myself looking at all of the beautiful things to buy and saying if she were here that I would get her this cute shirt with gold embroidered elephants, or these placemats with elephants, or this elephant figure, and the list goes on. Actually, I am almost finding it easier to find things for her than anyone else, try to figure that one out. I guess it is just the amount of items here with elephants that happen to remind me of her. Unfortunately that is the one animal we will not see on our safari here in South Africa. Happy Birthday Nana! We miss you.

September 30, 2005
V&A Waterfront

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

It is an even warmer day with the promise of even hotter temperatures in Mauritius. It has been a very lazy day around the ship uploading thousands of pictures from our stay thus far and organizing, arranging, editing, and captioning, thus an extremely long and time consuming process. We spent most of the morning taking care of the photos and hand washing some clothes. Last night we went through all of our accounting, tickets and souvenirs for the scrapbooks, leftover money, and labeling of purchases before wrapping them up to put in the suitcase. We are still under our budget for each port by a long shot, which feels very good considering that I have bought everything that I wanted for myself and the other items that I just had to get for mom and dad.

We went to the grocery store to buy African chocolate and some tea bags to use on the ship. Megan and I ate lunch onboard and I have a feeling that we will get dressed up for dinner tonight somewhere at the Albert Mall overlooking the harbor.

I cannot wait to have laundry day again, but until then I am forced to hand wash anything that requires laundering, though it takes time to dry and is limiting in terms of space. We will write postcards to everyone today so that they can be mailed tomorrow.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

I slept in today, if you consider seven o’clock sleeping in, and spent the morning organizing and labeling photos on the computer. It is a task that has to be done unfortunately and the massive amount has taken me all morning and mostly likely the remainder of the afternoon.

After lunch I went out to Victoria Wharf and went to the supermarket. Chocolate, something everyone seems to want right now is in high demand. We purchased some milk and dark so that we can stow it away in our closet drawer and have a piece occasionally. We also purchased some tea so that we do not have to pay for Lipton tea bags every time we would like some. We are almost out of cracker packs, something we were not even sure we would eat all of throughout the voyage.

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

Every single time we look out the window we see a seal swimming around and B has gotten quite use to the playmate. It seems as if all we have to do is go to the window and it pops it’s head above the surface and shakes it’s fins as if waving. I don’t know if it can actually see us or not but it certainly seems like it as it swims over to our window and hangs around waving it’s fin. We have decided to call him “Sony” since we have taken so many pictures of him with our cameras, though “Seal” would have worked fine too.

We checked our university web page to see if the course listings for the spring semester were posted and were shocked to find it available. We have decided to take Greek Art, Asian Art, Latin American Art before 1500, Art of the Pacific Islands, and Biological Anthropology. It seems like a great schedule, with no classes on Friday, which means a three-day weekend every weekend at home. How does that sound?

We went out to dinner tonight at the Green Dolphin and had a fabulous dinner. Megan really really wanted to go somewhere fancy and so I went along with her request that we get dressed up, even though it meant that I had to wear the heals. I had a chicken dish with peanut sauce, vegetables, and something that I have no idea what it was, but it tasted good. Megan had lamb and we both had Stellenbosch wine from Africa, Megan a dry red and I a dry white. It was fantastic and I am definitely ready for bed. At dinner Sony the seal showed up and the sunset was so beautiful over the mountain. As soon as we got back to the ship Marshall and Rich who were departing asked us if we wanted to go to a comedy club because they had booked four tickets and the two other people did not show up. We had to tell them that we were not interested, my feet really hurt, and the wine had other plans, namely a good night sleep. I think they were definitely disappointed, but I know they asked us because we looked so cute. I am glad that we went out to dinner.

I noticed while we were eating that many of the white Afrikaans looked strangely at us. Do we eat so differently? I think that the pace is definitely slower here, but I always forget that we are twins and that is mainly the reason why people are always staring at us. My stay here has made me think a lot about the apartheid movement and I wonder what the whites here think about the blacks and if there is any resentment. I most certainly feel as if there is an air of righteousness amongst the Afrikaans and it makes me feel very sympathetic to those of the underprivileged class and the blacks.

I know that I will sleep well tonight. Tomorrow we plan to do a little studying, buy dad his final gift from South Africa, finish organizing the photos, and plan for our great adventure on Sunday. I cannot believe that we are not leaving for Kenya tonight and I am reminded of this by the presence of our Kenyan interport lecturer.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

We are going to get dressed up for dinner out at either the Little Mermaid or the Blue Dolphin tonight. We want to feel, a word I seem to be using a lot, like we have done something special and enjoyed the atmosphere in the beautiful sunset on the waterfront. Afterwards we will come back to the ship and work on writing some postcards so we can mail them while we are in port. On a side note, has anyone received postcards yet from any other port?

Not sure if we will make it to Boulders Beach to see the penguins or not. It would have been fun but we have already experience so much.

Also, we sent some emails about two weeks ago, two to mom and dad, and two to Ashley. Has anyone received them? Someone we were talking to said that one person they had been emailing a lot wrote to them on their blog and asked why they had not been emailing, which of course she was. Anyway, email does not seem it is entirely reliable and the letters we sent were not something we saved at the time. I have also lost about two hours of Internet time and have to wait until we are back at sea to talk to the person who will take care of “investigating” the problem as I was told at the desk. I am extremely frustrated as I now have about an hour and a half of time left rather than almost four hours. I will get my time back though, you can be sure of that. They had done some work on the system the second day in port and that evening is when I noticed the discrepancy. Hopefully it will all work out or I will have to either purchase more minutes or discontinue my blog, which would be a terrible option.

We went to the Green Dolphin, I know I said Blue earlier, my mistake. The food was delicious and we each had a glass of wine, Heather had a white while I drank a red. We both enjoyed them and around seven thirty in the growing dusk walked back to the ship. It is quite cool in the evenings and in our pinstripe pants, heels, dressy top, and a special item we purchased in port, we were glad to have brought our shrugs along. While we are not allowed to bring empty bottles from alcoholic beverages onboard we did take a photo of the bottles so we can try to find these local Stellenbosch wines at home.

The street group I have fallen in love with was still out on our walk back and they sell their own CDs. I cannot describe the harmony and chanting but I absolutely love it and tomorrow on some small outing would love to be able to purchase their music. Once aboard two guys asked us if we wanted to go to a comedy as the girls they were supposed to go with ditched them. One of the guys lives a couple doors down and seems incredibly nice, the other actually went out with us in Brazil to the market. If we had talked more about the trip and Heather and I had not come from dinner we might have enjoyed such an outing. We decided to stay on the ship and being polite excused ourselves from the adventure. I don’t think either of us would have minded the trip, but again, dinner and wine consumed, we are still smart enough to handle ourselves well. The wine is a good precursor to a good night sleep and we cannot wait for one more relaxing day in Cape Town followed by a safari.

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

Mom and Dad: I feel as if I have finally come to a place in our voyage that I am really missing home and especially mom and dad. It is sinking in that I still have two and a half months left of this grand adventure and I still cannot believe that it is here and I am living it. How do I explain to myself that I am in AFRICA? Am I really on a completely different continent on the other side of the world? My eyes tear up when I think of home and I want to see everyone I love and hug them. I know that you would love it here and I missed by two favorite people in the entire world tonight at dinner. I am so happy and sad at the same time. My eyelids are getting heavy and so goodnight. I love everyone and miss them so much. I will eat a piece of chocolate for you both and send a big kiss and hug to you tonight.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

Heather and I talked at dinner about having been away from home for a month. We have thought about everyone, especially mom and dad a lot, but it has truly been more difficult here. Perhaps because I feel so happy here, so at home in a way, in this beautiful setting I want you here to experience this adventure with me. I have missed you in the last two ports but this one is honestly the most difficult. I prefer the company of adult passengers at times because it is with them that I connect, I talk and have conversations I could not possibly have with the majority of the students. I only hope I will return to Cape Town, go to eat at the Green Dolphin, shop at Out of Africa and Out of This World and all the other fabulous places, eat biltong which dad would love (dried meat like beef jerky only ten times better), have ostrich for dinner (I know dad would try this) go to the vineyards and wine lands and take a sunset catamaran that left while we were eating dinner. It felt truly awkward to be able to order a glass of wine at twenty without being carded or anything else. I love everything here and will be sad to leave. Even now thinking about all I have done, I can feel tears swell in my eyes as I contemplate moving on to the next port.

Amy Biehl Foundation

Be sure to check out the pictures below this from our Nature Tour and the entry below that which details our last two days in South Africa.

September 28, 2005
Cape Town

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

If we considered Monday a washout then today would certainly receive the same status. I found the field program to be a complete waste and was terribly disappointed in our experience at the townships. The trip was scheduled to last from nine thirty in the morning to five o’clock in the evening and we spent most of that time on the bus. I was so excited about the Amy Biehl Foundation and had hoped, according to the itinerary, to see the children at school learning how to read and playing musical instruments. Almost as soon as we stepped on the bus our tour guide told us that the kids were on holiday and thus the school would be deserted except for a group that would perform solely for us.

Our first stop was in the city at the foundation headquarters and took much longer than planned because a group of the students decided to stop for coffee. How thoughtful of them. Finally we drove to the township and walked to the spot where Amy Biehl was killed during the apartheid movement. It is a really touching story about Amy who was working to better the townships and killed in the political fire between the blacks and whites. Her parents have set up the foundation to continue her work and after the four men that killed her appeared at the Truth and Reconciliation Commission, they spent five years in prison and now two of them who participated in the stoning and stabbing have befriended the Biehls and work closely with the foundation. We were told that later in the tour we might have the chance to meet two of them.

Megan writes, “Wearing what I consider my most inconspicuous and unobtrusive apparel, blue jeans, tennis shoes, and a long sleeve gray semester at sea shirt, I departed for the Amy Biehl Foundation located in the city of Cape Town. The tour bus parked a block away and we were soon transported from the chilly breeze of the morning to the inside floor where our bags were searched and each person had to walk through a metal detector. Heather had to remove her belt, as she has so often done at airports. We met the people in the office and watched an eight-minute video about the project followed by a question and answer session. From there we departed for the primary school. No, no, I should probably be more specific. After waiting an hour for some students who decided the coffee shop was the next sojourn on our tour, we then left for the primary school.”

Our second stop was at the primary school where a small group performed, which was enjoyable, though far from the experience we expected. Before lunch we stopped at the Amy Biehl driving range that teaches children to golf and wasted time while some students attempted to hit some golf balls. Lunch was back in the township, which we did not eat because we were told it was thirteen US dollars and upon arrival they changed it to eighty rand, US dollars not accepted. Megan and I had prepared far in advance though for the likelihood that lunch would not appeal to us and had packed the largest grannie smith apples you have ever seen, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, granola bars, Oreo cookies, Capri Suns and water. We ate our lunch on the bus while everyone else sat at the township restaurant and we were very glad that we did not eat with the group when we saw the cooks and waiters coming out from the kitchen into the alleyway to take a leak before returning to the kitchen and the task of serving the students. Kids were picking through the trash and pulling out used soda cans that they smashed flat, leaving the top and bottom to wrap around their sneakers to create a sort of tap shoe. It was quite interesting to see how much fun their aluminum coke can shoes provided them and the smiles on their faces.


Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

Before that we made a brief hiatus to the spot where Amy Biehl was murdered. I should add that the Biehl’s (if you are not familiar with the story) later forgave the four murderers and that two of them actually work for the Foundation in helping to improve children’s lives. It is an amazing story of sadness, hope and future. The father of Amy Biehl has passed away but Linda, the mother, still has a special place in her heart for Cape Town and makes frequent visits. A special recording to the students on this trip from semester at sea was played for us later in the day. Additionally, one of the assassins was going to be meeting the group later, our tour guide informed us of this detail.

At the primary school we were told that it was a five-day holiday for the children and no one was around. The Foundation had managed to coerce a couple children to come perform, which was the highlight of the day (which isn’t saying much once you read the remainder of this fabulous adventure). I shouldn’t foreshadow too much though so, after about an hour we left the primary school in the township to go to the golf course. Golf is viewed as an activity for those with money and this special golf course is for “everyone.” Children from the schools are given classes and several of them hope to become the next Tiger Woods.

After half an hour we made a stop for lunch in which I decided not to participate. Heather and I packed an apple, granola bar, peanut butter crackers, Oreo cookies, and a Capri sun (some of the items we saved from our boxed lunch the day before). We saw several of the people while we sat on the bus; including cooks come out of the back and go to the bathroom. The place was dirty, littered with trash and the sanitation issue was a major concern for me. If only everyone else was aware of the fact that several cooks with red and white aprons came out to relieve themselves at the trash area of the building, there on the wall, in the dirt, and return to the kitchen, they may have been a little wary.

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

We watched the Sixty Minutes presentation about Amy Biehl and her killers on the ship before arriving in Africa and Megan asked me at the start of the tour if our guide was one of the men involved in the attack. “I don’t think so! Why would our tour guide be one of the men that murdered her?” I said. Well she was right! I never would have expected that. He has been very involved with the foundation and I am just shocked that we spent eight hours with a man that stabbed and stoned another girl our age.

Megan writes, “The most surprising element was when the tour guide told us who he really was. The entire day, a wonderful man, friendly, humorous, normal. He was one of the men to kill Amy Biehl. I would never have known. I understand the method, show us the real person now, and then tell us his past, but I was shocked. He said at the time it wasn’t just that she was white, it was that she was American. To kill a white American was like killing ten whites. Still I am speechless.”

At last we were able to take a tour through the township, and it is amazing to see the variety of materials that these people use to create a home. But they are so friendly and love to smile and wave as if they have not a care in the world. Of course the conditions are horrible and they have a long way to go to correct the injustice that these people have suffered. As we walked around the kids flocked to the group, mostly becoming attached to students that took their pictures and showed them on the digital screens. Somehow one of the little girls, the cutest if I say so myself, decided to walk with me and put her hand on my leg just above my knee which gradually worked its way up until she had a light grip on my back pocket, which loosely translates to my butt. It was so cute that Megan and I just laughed until she found someone else to cling to.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

We left for the township once more and walked the dust-covered streets for twenty minutes, children following us everywhere. I have never felt to isolated. So many students taking photos of these people and their lives. I felt ashamed to be stealing their existence in the click of a camera shutter, to return home to my safe environment and travel the world. It doesn’t seem fair. I heard one man say to a girl who was taking an incredible amount of pictures of his home, “Are you going to pay me for that?” We don’t ask, we don’t get to know these people, say hi, or start a small conversation, we just take. In the end I took several of some children, one who walked beside Heather with her hand on her pant leg. The hand found its way to Heather’s butt and we all laughed. The little girl was so cute and smiled when she saw herself on the camera screen. Now that I am writing these events they seem more defined.

We left the township, our tour guide telling us that many of the people told him that we are better than the white people. White people refers to many of the South Africans in the area, not foreigners and it made me feel a little better, like we made some small difference in the day.

The shacks are small, constructed of wooden strips, tin slates and roofs, and battered doors. Electrical lines all flow directly into the main source. The constructions are like quilts, but flawed in their composition. It seems like everyday is probably laundry day. For people with very little, clean clothes is important. Even the barefoot children’s clothes appear clean, though covered in dry dust from their daily escapades.

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

Then we were finally on our way back to the waterfront when our tire became impelled with a rock and we were forced to stop and make repairs, totaling another hour and a half on a hot bus in the middle of the townships, and I had to use the restroom.

Megan writes, “We left to return to the ship, the bus breaking down and us stranded for an hour and a half. We could not get off the bus we were told, and the air conditioning seemed more like heat. It wan an oven. To sum up the day, a waste, a complete waste. Some of my musing now makes the moments seem a little more worthwhile, but I was disappointed. Feeling like I have wasted two days in South Africa it is a welcome relief to know we have two additional days.”

To make a long story short we made it back, changed some more currency over after locating the nearest ladies room and walked around the waterfront. We picked out a beautiful little restaurant called the Little Mermaid that looks out over the water and Table Mountain to have dinner at tomorrow and found ourselves at the Cape Town Tourism Center. Professor Eastman told us about a wonderful reserve she went to yesterday for a game drive that is two hours away. They were taken to the reserve in a Mercedes, served five star food, and were no more than four feet from a herd of giraffes. So it is not Kenya, and there are no Maasai, no hot air-balloons, and no elephants, but there are giraffes, lions, zebras, wildebeest, eland and ostrich, 4x4 jeeps, a wonderful lodge and excellent food. We booked a safari on Sunday from six thirty in the morning until five o’clock. On ship time is nine o’clock and we are told that we will most likely be back sooner than five. Professor Eastman said it was absolutely wonderful, and being a much smarter, wiser, adult than many students who have booked trips we decided to give it a go. Of course nothing can replace Kenya, but at least Megan will get to see her giraffes. It was only one hundred and thirty dollars, which is fairly reasonable in the way of a safari since it is a private game reserve called Aquila.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

I had to tell Heather though that I would not buy one more giraffe, in which I could easily buy about three or four, until she purchased something for herself. She says as long as she is happy with her purchases it has nothing to do with how much I have. Of course she has practically forced me to buy this giraffe item and that giraffe item left and right. Tomorrow is our visit to Table Mountain followed by a day of shopping at the markets. Beads are the major item on our list. We will eat lunch at St. Elmo’s Wood Fired Pizzeria and dinner either at the Little Mermaid or the Blue Dolphin, which will include a glass of wine in honor of Nana’s 75th birthday. I am smelly and exhausted. Bad day. Good night.

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

When we returned to the ship for dinner we were greeted by the dining room staff, of whom many we have not seen in some time because they have been off duty and don’t usually work in the fifth deck dining room. Ormond asked about our day, which we explained was not so good, and upon leaving he presented us with a gigantic chocolate chip cookie for each of us, which of course made everything seem a little better. Extra brownie points for him, or should I say cookie points.

Tomorrow we are going to Table Mountain with another couple and would like to eat lunch at St. Elmo’s Wood-Fired Pizzeria, shop at the markets, and eat dinner at the Little Mermaid with a glass of African wine and think about Nana whom we miss very much and know that she will be that much closer to us on top of Table Mountain.

Kirstenbosch Photos

Out of Africa Into Mauritius

Okay, so we are posting about the last five days, three at sea and two in Cape Town. As we have not posted in quite a few days and we are very tired we have posted these entries as two separate pieces, one is Heather’s and one is Megan’s. We wanted to keep everyone up to date at home, but it takes entirely too long to combine these two entries into one flowing piece. Sorry if this confuses anyone, but it has been a very long day as you will read and we want to go to bed.

Heather’s Entry:

September 23, 2005
At Sea

The weather has been getting cooler as we make our way towards Cape Town and their spring season. We can expect temperatures in the high sixties and seventies, which should be a welcome change to the stifling heat of the past two ports. I am so excited and cannot believe that we will be in South Africa in two days and then on to Kenya.

I have finished using all of my Internet time, so we are going to switch to Megan’s and hope that it lasts another month. Today was our day to go to Purser’s Square and fill out a dozen or so immigration forms and arrival/departure papers that took about an hour, as they have been herding the students in groups to the Purser’s Desk based on identification numbers all week to complete these forms. I am so glad that the majority of the paperwork is complete for our trip. The last time I remember signing my name that much was when we bought my car.

Archbishop Desmond Tutu had a reception in the Union today, which we assumed to be a meet and greet for photo opportunities and such, but as it turns out it was a question and answer session. Unfortunately we had class during the allotted time. Since it was something totally different than what I expected it is no great loss, as he will be speaking tomorrow in class. We plan to arrive two hours in advance to get the best seats in the house.

Many of the students in our Field Methods class, which met during the same time as the reception, ditched class to see the Archbishop. Professor Smyth ultimately decided that with only a couple of students present for lecture that anyone who wanted to stay was welcome and whoever wanted to leave was permitted to do so. Obviously, Megan and I were the only two, but it was a great chance to learn about Picasa, which is a photo-editing program that we have access to on the ship. It is a really great program and we learned so much. In fact, Professor Smyth was so helpful, that we figured out how to resize a picture in terms of bytes and upload it to our blog. So, finally here come the pictures! I know that everyone has been anxiously awaiting the posting of visual references to go with our adventures.

After eating dinner, Ormond came over to clear our plates, and surprise, he brought us two chocolate chip cookies each! Yum. I was so surprised, but it really made my day and they were delicious – soft and chewy. I felt so special being one of two people on the entire ship with chocolate chip cookies and not the pineapple upside down cake that was served for dessert this evening.

We decided to watch a movie tonight, however, when it was time to come on they had switched what we thought was being broadcast to something else we had no interest in seeing, so we went to bed instead.

September 24, 2005
At Sea – Good News and Bad

The good news today is that we only have one more day until South Africa. We have so many things planned, including Boulder Beach to swim with the penguins, the Kirstenbosch Gardens, Groot Constantia Wine Estate, Seal Island, Township visits, Museum visit, Table Mountain, and shopping at the V&A Waterfront. Hopefully we can fit all of that in five days.

I used my special teabag from home today, and it was definitely a welcome treat in comparison to the bland Lipton teabags on the ship. Although they do have other teas at the snack bar and pool bistro, but I plan to buy some tea in Cape Town on our arrival, which reminds me that our visit to the tea farm in Kenya is no longer, which is explained in this entry.

The wave height is almost ten feet, with predictions for choppier seas and larger waves before we arrive. The swells seem to be rising over the ship and splashing against bulkheads. Desmond Tutu spoke in Global Studies today and it was an excellent lecture from our honored guest. We took tons of pictures and movies in the hope that at least one will turn out. His laugh is infectious and just thinking about it makes me smile, not to mention that I caught it on my movie recording and hope to share it with everyone at home, which I am sure will receive just as many laughs as it did for the students present.

At the end of class, and now the bad news, Executive Dean John, had a message for the shipboard community. He was practically in tears and so were we. No Kenya. They received news last night that there is an increase in piracy and potential risks from terrorists on marine vessels with no distinction between military vessels and passenger ships. As such we are not going to stop in Kenya or any other location in Africa on the eastern coast of the country. I cannot even scratch the surface of the emotional impact this announcement had. I was looking forward to Kenya the most and now we have no idea where our fourth port will be. We will find out tomorrow, though we are assured that our stay in Cape Town and our future stop at India will remain as scheduled. Many people are thinking Madagascar or a grouping of islands that I have never heard of. I called home immediately, miscalculating the time difference; it was six in the morning at home, and almost lunchtime on the MV Explorer. I think that this country meant so much to me because Nana really wanted us to go to Kenya on a safari and a hot air balloon ride over the Mara. It really has not sunk in yet, and I don’t think it will until we learn of the alternative port and the opportunities we will have there.

We have also heard some rumors, though not confirmed, or at least speculations that we may be diverted from Myanmar. Again, this is not confirmed. We also learned of a Japanese Encephalitis outbreak in India. It will not really affect us, though Agra and Delhi are on the outskirts of the specified areas. We had to make a decision by the afternoon yesterday if we wanted to receive the vaccinations. Unfortunately having the shots does not guarantee protection. The ship needed to order the vaccine so that it would arrive in Cape Town. It is a set of three shots that are administered on a specific schedule, the first being the day we arrive in Africa. We opted not to get the vaccine because the clinic seemed to suggest that wearing long pants and long sleeves was adequate protection with the addition of bug repellant. It is transmitted by a mosquito and it costs a grand total of four hundred dollars for the regiment.

I am so disappointed that we are not going to Kenya and hope that the replacement will be at least half as grand as a safari. So the mood on the ship is definitely subdued and expectant. I cannot believe that the one place I really wanted to see with all my heart and experience every blade of grass and cloud in a hopefully cloudless blue sky, not to mention giraffes, elephants, and lions, is no longer apart of this voyage of discovery. I am not sure if I want to cry or sulk, but hope that Cape Town and the wonderful experiences awaiting us will take my mind off of this truly unexpected setback.

Tonight we have Cultural Pre-port and the Bering Sea is having a movie night in the Union afterwards, though the comedy of choice will be chosen democratically. We are going to discuss the upcoming Sea Olympics and how we are going to win, and then eat cookies and enjoy a movie.

At the Pre-port gathering I sat right next to Desmond Tutu. Not three seats, right next to the Archbishop and his wife! When the choir sang the national anthem, in four languages, he sang right along. He is so expressive and genuine. When he sat down he said, “Twins! Hello!” I don’t know what it is about him but he is so bubbly and warm and I don’t think I stopped smiling the entire time he was there. Though I am sad to report that I still don’t have a picture with him yet.

September 25, 2001
Bye Bye Kenya – Hello ?

? This seems to be the social topic of the day. Where are we going? We started out the day just like any other day, but with the constant voice in our heads saying this and that about our prospects for the fourth port of call. So the list ranges from, and some of them are really silly, Iran, Pakistan, Antarctica, Australia, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, and many others, including other countries in Africa. Of course this is all speculation. I was thinking about my voyage T-shirt that I bought at the beginning of the voyage and the fact that it is wrong because we are no longer going to Africa. I have a feeling that because it is Sunday we will not find out until tomorrow or until the last day in Cape Town.

On a more positive note…we arrive in Cape Town tomorrow, and the seas are pretty rough. Classes were great today with a lecture on the food of Africa in Global Studies, the return of our papers in Tourism, and a talk from the photographer in Field Methods with some awesome tips on taking photos and ethics. I am really impressed with the caliber of the staff; the photographer has taken pictures of September eleventh, the pope, and Hollywood’s finest. Our Travelers’ Journals professor works for the Los Angeles Times and is using this trip for some assignments on travel covering the places we are visiting. Incidentally, I received an A on my Tourism essay and I am very pleased. He actually had Megan read her essay and I think that she really nailed the assignment with descriptive prose. My topic was a tad bit more factual.

Desmond Tutu sat at the table next to us for lunch and after completing his meal we finally got a picture with him that is so cute. I have already printed it out and magnetized it to the wall.

At four o’clock Megan and I attended the last NOAA drifter deployment, which is the one thousand two hundred forty ninth drifters out of the one thousand two hundred and fifty that they plan to deploy. Desmond Tutu and Captain Jeremy had the honor of deployment, dropping the drifter off the fantail into the choppy surf. We also got some great pictures of all the action as Desmond Tutu signed the floater that has been adopted by a school in Cape Town and a school in Virginia. Incidentally, Desmond Tutu danced around the back of the deck; swing his arms, and laughing, as salty spray and intense winds rocked the ship. You had to be there, but it was great.

The weather is getting colder; somewhere in the sixties, and I have a feeling that I may be wearing some of my long-sleeved shirts in Cape Town and be forced to wear a wetsuit when swimming with the penguins. Tonight we have Pre-port Logistics and had a conversation with out Global Studies professor who went to Maryland and grew up in Baltimore. We had fun chatting about Aberdeen and Havre de Grace and how they have developed since he was last in the area. We will be saying goodbye to our honored guest tonight and hopefully there is something fantastic planned for his departure.

Desmond Tutu said some final words tonight and received some gifts from the shipboard community, including the voyage book, which was signed by all of the students. We signed on the first page! Tomorrow we arrive in Cape Town and as of yet we still have no idea where we are going next. I can’t wait to find out.

September 26, 2005
South Africa

Good morning South Africa! When we awoke this morning at six o’clock we were greeted with the beautiful landscape of Africa and the rising sun. We were pulling into the harbor and the clouds were just settling over Table Mountain, forming what the locals call the “Tablecloth,” as I assume that some giants of old are probably sitting down to breakfast at the mount. As we pulled into the waterfront the swells became quite intense. Luckily Megan had secured everything the night before, except for the hundreds of bottles in the bathroom cabinet, which was completely trashed. I stubbed my foot on the ledge in the shower, and again on my flip-flip and my empty cup on the nightstand went sliding to the floor. When we arrived for breakfast the entire contents of one table, about six plates of food, and cups were littered on the carpet. Apparently the mess came along with a rather loud clash.

Once the ship was cleared we went back to our cabin to look out the window. We have the most amazing view of the V&A Waterfront and Table Mountain. How lucky are we that the port side is facing the city? It is so beautiful with all the shops, and after about an hour of other students pushing their way off in a huge crowd, we disembarked and walked around the waterfront. This is the first place that I feel completely safe to walk around, just the two of us. There are so many restaurants within feet of the ship, and all of the shops are just as close. I had no idea that we would be right at the waterfront. We waited for about an hour in a line at the currency exchange counter as the students in front of us cashed travelers checks and used their credit or debit cards to get money. I have to say that cash is definitely the way to go when changing currency. Everything else requires a passport and extensive phone calls to credit card companies. After getting our money changed we did a little shopping for the first item we have bought in each port – postcards and stamps. Of course we found many other things, some we bought now, and some we will wait to buy, and many things with giraffes on them, which means that Megan bought them all! Ha ha ha.

After lunch on the ship we had a trip to the University of Cape Town followed by a museum to meet Gavin Younge, who wrote Art of the South African Township. It was supposed to be a fairly interesting trip to begin with though ended in disaster. We finally met the Art History professor and is incredibly nice. She would like to get the Art History majors, there are about five, together for dinner. Unfortunately this trip was originally scheduled for Thursday and then moved to Monday, which ultimately means someone messed up. If we had not checked our tickets we would have missed it. I guess that in all of the confusion they forget to check the museum hours as it was closed and we are told that we should expect some sort of a refund. All in all we felt as if we had wasted much of the day and did not really do anything of significance except stand in line at the currency exchange counter and sit on a tour bus. So we did some more shopping upon our return to the waterfront, and dad made out good. Sorry that is all I can say!

The biggest news of the day was our upcoming port of call. We are going to extend our stay in Cape Town for two days, leaving on the second of October, and heading toward Mauritius, a small island that we will arrive at on the ninth of October for three days. Whereas the weather is quite nippy here at times, the weather on the island will be in the nineties and rumor has it that there are white sandy beaches and the bluest water you have ever seen. I guess that means three days of sun, three days of sand, and three days of snorkeling. I’ll let you know about the water and if it really is as blue as they say.

September 27, 2005
Nature Tour

When we left the ship this morning there was a beautiful rainbow over Signal Hill, one of the most vibrant and bright I have ever seen. We began our Nature Tour with a ride to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens on the other side of Table Mountain. Almost the second we arrived it started to rain, and we pulled on our jackets, rolled up our blue jeans, and secured our hoods over our heads. It was not a very intense rain, and did not last too terribly long, but the wind made it impossible to use an umbrella. It came to a halt about halfway through our tour of the grounds, which left everything in a sparkle of raindrops and the waterfalls spilling over stone paths in a stream. We took some really great pictures! The plants were beautiful, green, and exotic. They have the cutest tree that looks a little bit like a palm but much smaller that I absolutely love. The grounds are expansive and the plants various. It seemed as if we walked on forever amongst the flowers, green lawns, and stone paths strategically placed in streambeds. I have to say it was exhilarating and far more extensive than I could go into in this entry.

Our second stop was relatively close by and was the long awaited Groot Constantia Wine Estate. It is the oldest estate and manor house and we sampled four of the wines, a white, blush, red, and dessert. I would find it very difficult to say which was my favorite, probably the red or the blush, well I don’t know. They were all very good, except for the dessert. It was the color of amber and very sweet owing to the fact that it was flavored with honey. I definitely had to pucker my mouth on that one. Each time they brought around another sample, one of the two adults passengers that we sat with, one is a professor and the other is the wife of the professor we were suppose to do the snorkeling with in Kenya, would guess the ingredients of the wine. In an English accent he would say, “hazelnut, I think,” or “oh yes, very smoky that one.” It was a laugh and we got to keep our glasses that are inscribed with the crest of the estate.

Last but not least we went to Seal Island. It was about a forty-five minute trip by boat to the island and the swells were very rough. By the time we arrived at the island I was dreaming of land, and by the time that we left I was wondering if we would ever see flat land again. I have never been so afraid that a boat would flip over and I am sure I played the scene over and over in my head a thousand times. But we did make it back, and just in time, as I am sure that I was quite green in the gills and my stomach was none to happy either. Seal Island was covered in hundreds of the seals and the most striking aspect was most assuredly the horrendous stench. On our way back to the dock we spotted whales and managed to get some pictures.

Finally we returned to the ship, tired, and not feeling too hot. We downloaded our photos, about five hundred between the two of us, onto our laptops. Is that enough pictures for one day dad? I know you wanted us to take a lot! We went to dinner, had a chat with Betty and Bob and another couple and talked to Martina about safaris in South Africa. It is basically a waste of time to do one independently and also a waste to do one in South Africa. There are no elephants and no giraffes and very few animals. Betty told us that Boulder Beach was a must and that the penguins are so cute. She said, “They don’t run very fast so you can get some really good pictures.” We are going to meet a couple of the adult passengers for breakfast on Thursday and go to Table Mountain together, which is so exciting.

Tomorrow we will be traveling to a township and I am not sure what to expect. We drove past one today, and my mouth dropped open. But more on this tomorrow when I really experience the townships in full. Good night Africa, good night Cape Town, and good night everyone.

Megan’s Entry:

September 23, 2005
At Sea

Looking out the window of our room I can see rolling hills of blue water for miles and miles, or at least until the sea meets the sky. It has been downcast for a day or so now and today seems to be beginning in much the same vein.

Heather and I went to Purser’s square to get our packet of immigration forms for the remainder of the trip: 2 Kenya forms, 4 Myanmar, 2 Japan, and 2 Indian and 1 or 2 Vietnam. Anyway, it took an hour before Global Studies and an hour after Global Studies to complete.

Our class in the afternoon, Field Methods, was ended quickly when only four students made an appearance. Desmond Tutu was doing a question and answer session in the Union. Heather and I went at 2:00 but left around 2:10 for class. I know, class over Desmond Tutu, but the room was crammed like a can of sardines. His main lecture will be tomorrow and we will arrive early to get good seats.

At dinner Ormond brought Heather and I, what else, but chocolate chip cookies. We tried to hide them at our table alone so that no one would try to snag them. Yum, yum, yummy!

September 24, 2005
Desmond Tutu

After a quick breakfast, cereal, Heather and I headed to the Union around eight o’clock. Sitting in the front row, a great view, minus the students who came and sat on the floor practically on top of Archbishop Tutu with baseball caps on which I thought particularly disrespectful. We took a lot of pictures and tapped some of his speech and hopefully they will turn out descent enough in the awkward lighting of the Union.

His speech was phenomenal and my only regret, still, is not having a photo with him. His exits, apparently, have become perfected to an art form. Gracious and friendly he leaves, making a brief pause to shake a hand, smile widely, or accept some remark. No pictures, no signature on my book. But, in light of that, he is here, and I am here, and the memory is the most important. His laughter during his speech was unforgettable.

Several people in my Travelers’ Journals class have told me how wonderful my presentation has been. But, whew! I am finished…so here I come South Africa.

On a different note, After Desmond Tutu’s speech, Dean Tymitz, stuttering and frowning, almost in tears it seemed, reminded us of two things: 1) The safety of the passengers, faculty and crew was the most important, and 2) Flexibility is the buzzword for Semester at Sea. We are not going to Kenya. That’s it…not going. Still when I write it down it seems unreal, not having sunk in. WE ARE NOT GOING TO KENYA! Maybe I should say it out loud. No luck.

What hurts the most is this port meant the most to me, not only with my studies with African Art History, but with my connection to my grandmother. No more giraffes, lions, tigers or bears…okay, no bears to begin with. I will get to Kenya in my life, I know it. It feels a little like I have broken a promise, thrown a dream to the wayside. Perhaps I felt being there would be bringing me nearer to her. Before she passed away she shared stories about the Maasai and her various safaris. Perhaps I should mention, though it is only hearsay and rumor and not a fact, that there still exists a possibility that our stop in Myanmar will be diverted as well. Flexibility. I believe I am at a loss for words. But I am still happy.

We ate dinner with Bob and Betty. They sing tonight at the cultural pre-port and I cannot wait to hear the South African National Anthem in four languages. I will try to make up for the removal of Kenya on Victoria and Alfred waterfront by buying lots of pieces of art from all over Africa, not to mention spending lots and lots of money.

After cultural pre-port, the Bearing Sea, our sea, has a meeting to discuss the Sea Olympics and then a movie, to be decided democratically. AND COOKIES!!! The sea wave height was around 9-10 feet today and is definitely said to be getting more turbulent as we near the tip of Africa. We were told to secure all things in our cabins, items off exposed surfaces, everything in either drawers or the closet.

Desmond Tutu sang the national anthem along with the choir as everyone stood and I was almost moved to tears at the conclusion when he went and hugged and kissed everyone in the group. If only I could sing. He is so delightful.

One more time to lose an hour and then we are in Cape Town. Good Night.

September 25, 2005
Rocking and Rolling

Salt covers the surface of our window and as such makes it extremely difficult to sea anything. Even if the position report says it is six or seven foot waves, I know that when they took the measurement it must have been the low point of the day as the sliding across the deck and stumbling over tables has been extreme. Our nightstand drawers seem to be opening and closing of their own accord. We have a poltergeist apparently.

Here is the rundown of ports as a possibility that have been circulating among the students and also written on a paper at the Field Office. It is interesting to see some of the bizarre places people are guessing. I am a little excited to find out with so many ridiculous options: Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Seychelles, Mauritius, Antarctica, Oman, somewhere in Malaysia, Australia, Tanzania and Egypt (which can’t possibly count as they are on the east coast of Africa), and London (yeah right). You could say some people are not taking into account the position of the ship or where things are placed on the world map.

In Anthropology of Field Methods we received our papers back, my grade being an A+! I was so excited – for a brief second – before our professor asked me to read mine to the class. Great, just what I wanted, to read five pages to a class without any preparation and with no one before or after sharing theirs. I will include a posting of the paper after I reformat so that it is not double-spaced.

After finishing lunch Desmond Tutu and his wife appeared and sat at a table next to ours. We, finally, as they were leaving got a picture. While it is perhaps not the greatest photo with the awkward lighting of the dining hall, I am so glad to have finally gotten a photo.

When Anthropology of Field Methods concluded Heather and I went to the fantail of deck four for the deployment of a drifter. Our first time on the fantail of deck four and what an experience. The waves were rolling against the back of the ship, spray raining across the deck. With only about twenty people, or less, we were graced with not only Desmond Tutu and his wife, but the Captain as well. It felt like a secret meeting and I was thrilled to not have hundreds of other students around. Both the Captain and Desmond Tutu, who would drop this very special equipment into the turbulent sea, signed the drifter. NOAA is employing 1250 drifters into the ocean and this was number 1249. Nothing would have made this experience more perfect, not even if it was number 1250.

Heather and I have found our way to the Union after dinner for the pre-port logistics meeting and the farewell to our guests. We signed a book for Desmond Tutu at the Field Office desk. It will be a change to see him go, but a brief hiatus in South Africa will fill the void. I am writing my journal and drinking hot tea. Tomorrow I will open my card for South Africa.

There are so many thoughts on my mind as everyone here, I am sure, is on the same boat. SHIP!!! Hopefully soon it will all be resolved and we will be on our way. Tomorrow in Cape Town we hope to take the cable car to the top of Table Mountain and do some leisurely shopping. Watch out large boxes will soon be falling from the sky in Aberdeen shipped from Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. Perhaps not, but I do intend to shop, shop, shop.

September 26, 2005
Art & Society What?

After pre-port logistics last night we realized, thankfully, that the art and society in South Africa field directed practicum had been moved from Thursday to today at one thirty. As such we disembarked around eleven, after waiting and waiting and waiting in a line with seven hundred other people exiting the two-story gangway. We walked down the Victoria and Alfred waterfront and changed some money, which took about an hour.

So many shops, so many things to do. Everything is so colorful and comfortable, though the weather is a little chilly. The cobbled roads, palm spattered landscape, and Table Mountain make this a beautiful port. We managed to purchase postcards and stamps. This time, unlike in the previous ports, we actually purchased six different postcards. Now all we have to do is decide who gets which one. In the last two ports we have generally selected only two images.

The Field Directed Practicum was a big washout waiting to happen. We went to the University of Cape Town for a lecture with Gavin Younge. His presentation though was hardly enjoyable as it seemed he had prepared for a group of experts in the field of African art history and various ideas of identity. Even I had an extremely difficult time keeping up with his terminology and technical presentation. As one of the only two art history students and the only African art student out of ten participants, I was not terribly impressed. Sure, he is a wonderful sculptor and obviously intelligent but his presentation was geared to a more sophisticated and learned audience.

From there we left for the museum, but guess what? The museum is closed on Monday. You would think that if they changed the date of the trip they would have checked such an important detail. At least the cost of the ticket was to be out of pocket and as the museum was closed we did not loose additional money.

We went back to the pier around four o’clock, ate dinner, prepared some items for the following day and of course, spent some time discussing the most recent news. We will be staying in Cape Town for two additional days, until October 2, 2005. Then we will set a course for Mauritius, an island close to Madagascar and spend three days there from October 9th to the 11th. Supposedly the beaches are beautiful, the shopping superb, and snorkeling quite good. If only they could add a safari we could call it Kenya, as my plans in Kenya consisted of visiting beaches, snorkeling, shopping, safari and hot air balloon.

We went out to the Victoria Wharf and bought a couple things. There are so many masks and pieces of art I have studied. Heather needs a leash to keep me moving in the shops, as I tend to stop and drool at each one. My wish list would include: Chi-wara mask, Mwashamboy mask, Bwoom mask, Akua-ba, Ere Ibeji, and Kwifo mask, all of which mean absolutely nothing I am sure to anyone else.

We purchased a phone card but went to bed and set our alarm for one o’clock in the morning so we could call Mom and Dad at their seven o’clock. The time went by too quickly but I was so happy to hear their voices. It was so hard to get back to sleep after that point but I managed.

September 27, 2005
Nature Tour

Outside the ship at eight thirty in the morning and the most amazing site greets me, a rainbow. I believe we have had about six or seven rainbows so far: one in Brazil, one on Neptune’s day, and two today that I can recall. Even though the sun was shining it rained a good bit. Our first stop was Kirstenbosch Gardens. Intermittent showers interrupted the wonderful vista of indigenous plants. Never could I put into words the incredible trees, flowers, and other vegetation that is native to this region. Vista upon vista of vibrant flowers, carpeted green grass, palm trees, short trees, cacti-like trees but not cacti at all, and small winding paths. Perhaps the most interesting were the elephant lavender. Ironically, the flower smells like elephant droppings. Heather and I wore long pants and a long-sleeve tunic, but ended up putting on jackets, with hoods up, and rolling up our pants. In these costume we looked quite funny and the pictures we took are cute.

After the tour we headed to Groot Constantia, the oldest manor and vineyard. Inside we attended a wine tasting, four wines, a white, blushing, red and dessert, which were all really nice. My favorites would have to be the blushing and red. We toured the manor house and cellar. It was an enjoyable experience and the scenery was fabulous. Every landscape around Cape Town has a view of Table Mountain, thus everything is framed in its presence.

Our last stop, Hout Bay. There we boarded a boat for Seal Island. Never have I been so uncomfortable in a boat. I thought for sure we would flip over, as each large swell would send us up and teetering down with a crash. The seals were indeed a sight, however far more smelly. The best reward were the two right whales that made an appearance on our return to the marina. By this point of course I am trying to contain myself with each thump of the boat and surges that sent us pitching from side to side. All this after a wine tasting. Perhaps I should have slept on the bus? In one word, never.

Back at the ship I went to dinner, corn chowder was the soup, and talked with Betty and Bob and two other adult passengers who I am remiss in remembering their names. The two, whose name I cannot recall, are going to Table Mountain Thursday morning and asked if we were interested. We will take a taxi together and get a cable car to the top. At least one of the two things we wanted to see is assured. The other, Boulder Beach, we will have to keep inquiring if anyone else is interested. All four of them had gone to Boulder Beach today and told us it was wonderful and the penguins were adorable.

I have decided to forget a safari. There are only two options for such a trip. The first is to fly to Johannesburg and go to Kruger National Park. Look at a map, please, it is not something I would do individually. It is expensive and there are too many things to take into account. Option two is a private game drive about two hours away but the only animals are rhino, antelope, eland, and zebra. No elephants and no giraffes. This does not sound like a safari to me. There is plenty of wonderful things to do in Cape Town, even right here on the waterfront.

I am exhausted and ready for bed. Tomorrow we visit several townships under the guidance of the Amy Biehl Foundation and I am sure it will be a long day.

Pictures At Last!

Shaved Heads - At Last

 Please be sure to check “Bye Bye Brazil” underneath this entry, as well as any other journals from our stay in Salvador. As we posted everyday in port, there are quite a few new entries if you have not checked regularly. Our recommendation for someone on a tight time schedule is “A Very Special Day” and “Shaved Heads – At Last”.

September 18, 2005
At Sea

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

“So tell everybody I’m on my way, new friends and new places to see. Blue skies ahead, yes I’m on my way, and there is no place that I would rather be.” Yes, we are at sea again and it is beautiful. If the sunset last night was not good enough like a tequila sunrise melting into the blueness of night, than today knows no equal. The sea is so blue and so still. I don’t think I have ever seen it like this before. As we move farther into the Atlantic the water has taken on an almost quicksilver like finish, the slate gray clouds closing in on top like a ceiling of fluffy whipped cream compressing the sea and the sky.

Megan writes, “The sea is so calm and flat I am not even sure we are moving towards South Africa and crossing the oceanic void in front of us. I had breakfast, in which I am enjoying a bowl of cereal – Rice Krispies, Special K or Raisin Bran has been the selection the last couple of days. I have switched to toasting English muffins and normally a fried egg or cheese omelet or two sausage links or breakfast ham. I have also been eating a lot of green apples and would not call it a full day until I have had at least one.”

Today in Global Studies I sat, three, yes, three seats to the left of Archbishop Desmund Tutu. Three, count them…one, two, three, and there he sat, smiling and laughing in a gray Semester at Sea polo, the rest of us smiling and laughing with him. In fact, when the Dean introduced him, the students in the Union stood up, clapping enthusiastically at the arrival of our honored guest. I could have cried, waiting for something like this for so long and then it is here, and we were all applauding as if we had known him forever. Of course, the biggest question of the hour was how he would integrate with the students. But just as if he had never left the ship and had been here all along he waited in line for lunch and sat down to a full table of students. How amazing. Did I mention that I sat three seats to his left?

Megan writes, “In Global Studies I sat four seats away, in the same row, as Archbishop Desmond Tutu. I am not sure anyone was able to pay attention to the lecture. He stood when Dean Tymitz introduced him and we all stood and clapped for what seemed like an eternity. I am sure my face was flushed and reddened from the excitement. It is so thrilling to have him on board. He was in the dining hall eating with four students at lunch, and I am bewildered by the generous and receptive nature he has shown everyone this far. I guess I never expected him to mingle and socialize in such an ordinary routine. Perhaps I am one of many placing him on a pedestal too high so that he seems inaccessible. Students walking by him as he sat in the Union for Global Studies did not even realize it was him, one girl practically climbing over him to get to an empty chair in my row. When we told her he was a couple chairs down she laughed and said, ‘Should I go apologize to him for sticking my ass in his face?’”

I miss Brazil already, but the routine of classes has begun again and we have had the honor of listening to our other pre-port lecturer in Anthropology Tourism. It occurs to me that because I have left out all mention of the treats I bought in Brazil, that I have also censored myself from writing about the wonderful adventures that correspond to them, of which this is something I will definitely resolve in my future journals, though, once again, they will be void from the online portion.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

I am assuredly lulled into a false sense of security with the smoothness of the waves and mostly likely tomorrow we will be rocking and rolling across the Atlantic ocean. Signs were hung announcing laundry day and Heather and I managed to pack all of our dirty apparel into one bag. We labeled the white plastic carrier with a pink sharpie, trying to be original and Heather drew a smiley face and wrote thank you. Perhaps we will get our clothes back tomorrow.

Heather writes, “We advanced our clocks one hour tonight and I am told that there will be five more such advancements before our arrival in Cape Town. So, with no further adieu, goodnight, until next time.”

September 19, 2005
At Sea – Rocking and Rolling as Ormond Says

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

It has finally hit. I don’t know whether it is a result of my laxness yesterday in using any of the plethora of seasickness measures I bought with me, but after Global Studies this morning I crashed on the bed and forced down some Dramamine, while ripping out the sea-bands and positioning them on my wrists. We have swells of between six and seven feet, and though we have experienced this height before, the waves are hitting the ship in a different direction and my stomach would completely agree. I did not think that I would be able to eat lunch, but felt as if I should try to eat something. The ship has delicious bread and rolls so I choose a slice of white bread and thought to myself that a bowl of soup would be nice. What a surprise when I discovered it was split pea soup, a traditional South African dish, and consequently it was exactly what the doctor ordered. I felt infinitely better and ready to take on the rest of the day.

Megan writes, “Yes, the inevitable, the direction of the ship has made it nearly impossible to avoid the pitching of breakers against the hull. The six and half feet waves feel incredibly high as small objects, hair claws and pens, fall off their tables onto the carpeted floor. In addition, three of the bon-voyage cards have fallen over in their alcove and several drawers on the nightstand and underneath the television peek open to reveal their organized innards. Just now, as I am writing this, a can of shaving cream has fallen from the shower rack and is rolling noisily across the tile flooring of the bathroom. I will have to secure everything tonight before going to sleep. Does this mean tape? Perhaps not yet.”

We put our cards out from Mom on our nightstand to open in a couple of days, and found it interesting that they do not say to open halfway between Brazil and South Africa, just between the two. So I said it felt like the card was not square, which led from one thing to another, and that the little orange blob showing through the white envelope was probably fish. Needless to say we opened them and found a very cute card depicting a fishbowl. On a side note, Mom, they cannot be Pontus and P2 because they are in the same dish and that means that pretty soon there will only be one fish swimming around the clear surface and one sunk at the bottom – if you get the drift. Anyway, it brightened our day, especially with the minor spell of seasickness. We cannot wait to use our tea, as they only have the bland Lipton brand upstairs.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

Our laundry has returned, it seemed the pink decorations worked miraculously. Even the enormous amount of ironing was hung on the doorknob. I officially believe that we are the only cabin to have received the ironing back as well with our laundry.

Heather writes, “Again, we were honored by the presence of our interport lecturer in Travelers’ Journals and a discussion on the sights of South Africa. I am getting more and more excited and cannot wait to hear Desmund Tutu speak and our imminent arrival in our third port.”

We have magnetized our blackout curtain over the window, as the rolling breakers and plunging patterns of the ship seem to interrupt the darkness with flashes of light from the whitecaps of waves rebounding off of the hull. Thus far it has worked in keeping down the blind. We turned our clocks forward last night and will do so again tonight. Five hours in all will be our goal. How will I ever call home with such a distinct difference?

Tomorrow is Neptune day and I am not even sure what festivities will be available as nothing has really be said about the event. Perhaps the undulation of waves is the announcement of King Neptune to all pollywogs to prepare for initiation. Without much at sea, except classes on the weekend and a daily routine established, I feel as if weeks has elapsed since our stay in Brazil.

Heather writes, “We took an unexpected nap before dinner, and once again we will advance our clocks one hour, putting us a grand total of three hours ahead of our friends and family at home. We do not have class tomorrow because it is Neptune’s Day and I have no idea what to expect, hopefully good food, and maybe some chocolate chip cookies!”

How awkward was it to have class on Sunday? I checked my email and blog several times thinking everyone at home is off because it is the weekend; no emails from the home campus because no one is in the offices.

Heather writes, “Before going to sleep I worked on some study guides for Global Studies and a little writing on my next Tourism essay due sometime in October.”

I am tired and have to turn my clock forward again. Thinking of home and everyone there. Shannon and Ashley’s comments on the blog made me smile on such a chaotic day at sea when everyone looks as if they are either dancing a bizarre routine together, left and then right again and again, or we have all had too much to drink.

September 20, 2005
Shaved Heads – At Last

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

Okay, so I had you going there for a minute, right? No, no shaved heads here. Captain Neptune has prepared quite a show for us with ten-foot waves. Ironically, they feel like less than yesterday, though that is not the case.

Heather writes, “Megan and I awoke at six o’clock this morning regardless of the fact that we had no class today. We were upstairs eating breakfast, a bowl of cereal, English muffin and link of sausage, when the rumors started flying. What was happening down below? Apparently King Neptune’s men were awaking the pollywogs with horns and drums and knocking on doors. Boy am I ever glad that I was awake and dressed! So a steady stream flowed into the Garden Lounge for breakfast looking as if they had just rolled out of bed, and was none to pleased about it.”

On our way from breakfast, Desmond Tutu, yes, Archbishop Desmond Tutu stopped Heather and I to ask if we were twins. He and his wife were on their way to breakfast and of course, I just had to mention this. Unsure of the festivities for the day, we sat in the Piano Lounge for a while, then back to the Garden Lounge for hot tea. Apparently everyone was awoken to loud drumming and the marching of King Neptune and his followers. Luckily I was already up as I hear many students were not overly thrilled about the wake-up call. By the way, did I mention Desmond Tutu asked if Heather and I were twins?

Heather writes, “We made our way back to our cabin, when who should we run into, but none other than Desmund Tutu. How exciting. We had a little chat with him and his wife, before deciding that we would return to the Garden Lounge for a cup of tea. I meet Desmund Tutu today, and he asked if we were twins. How cool is that?”

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

On our second trip back to our room we heard the faintest of drumming, getting gradually louder as King Neptune, his Queen and loyal servants of the sea made their way to the pool deck for a day of festivities. We followed them up to the cheers of “pollywogs” and ridiculous costumes parading around the pool, some of the crew masquerading in pointed foil caps with white sheets wrapped around their shoulders like capes. The King was Captain Jeremy, absolutely resplendent in bright green paint and wig. Where else can an honorable Captain be coerced into the garb of a mythological god? Only on Semester at Sea apparently. Then it was time to recite the official oath and get underway with the transformation from pollywogs to shellbacks, no matter how gross, with goo and grime. Megan and I watched the celebration from the side of the pool as pitchers of what smelled like fish guts were poured over the student’s heads and they splashed into the communal bathtub to wash the grits out of their hair. It was so gross to see the crystal clear water of the pool as it turned to a cloudy mush, and the smell was much worse. Finally we could take it no longer and returned to our cabin. I felt really down because of this ritual and an overwhelming sense of guilt that I was too chicken to become a shellback. I think that we sat in our cabin for about fifteen minutes when suddenly we both decided it was not worth it to regret something so trivial as having fish rot poured over your head. So we threw on our suits and CMBP shorts and ran back up to the pool deck, praying that we were not to late. We made it just in time, and shared a pitcher between the two of us, as the ringleader, our Executive Dean, announced the presence of the twins at last. It was so gross, but at least I can say that we are no longer pollywogs. On a side note, it was not exactly fish guts, but a mixture of probably vinegar and oatmeal, as the fish would make it quite difficult to clean the pool and would be tremendously unhygienic.

Megan writes, “There was an enormous beautiful rainbow over the stern of the ship this morning. With my camera stashed in my purse, I took a couple photos before it vanished. Perhaps King Neptune’s arrival coincided with the appearance of the rainbow. Up on deck seven, near the pool, all pollywogs were initiated, or at least those brave enough.”

Hooray for the shellbacks. I still have my hair, thankfully, though many students decided to shave their heads. I probably washed my hair at least five times and scrubbed my body, but in the end I am glad that I did it, and very pleased with the few pictures that someone took for us on our camera.

Megan writes, “The process was fairly simple, and to some extent, rather official as those initiated had their identification number written down. I am not exactly sure as to the purpose, but I am sure that will eventually be made clear. King Neptune, of course, was the captain painted in green. His followers, the drummers, fish ladies and queen were all wrapped in white sheets with glittering decorations. I thought we weren’t allowed to take sheets out of our cabin? Hmmm. Heather and I didn’t want to contribute such falsehoods to our online journal as: yes, we are no longer pollywogs. As such, we were initiated by the pouring of smelly liquid, supposedly vinegar and oatmeal pieces, but still reeking of disgusting fish, then a jump into the cloudy pool, kissing a fish, and bowing before King Neptune himself. I can now shout, “I AM A SHELLBACK!” I am not feigning such a feat, for I am no longer a pollywog.”

We relaxed for the remainder of the day, doing some work for Global Studies and a paper that is due in Anthropology Tourism at some point in October since I have the first essay completed already.

There are five more days until South Africa and it seems as if everything is flying by.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

The rest of the day I have relaxed and worked some, on and off. Doing some more preparation for my next Global Studies exam and writing my second paper for Anthropology of Tourism.

We went up to the pool bar to get some more water and treated ourselves to our first sodas in twenty-five days. It feels like Survivor where you get that one-bite-of-chip-one-sip-of-soda-deal and then you are without such luxuries again. Of course, not having had soda for so long, the carbonation did not seem too thrilled in my stomach, as I soon felt a little empty.

As for the remainder of the evening, after dinner I will post on the blog and do some writing. Sleep tight…

Bye Bye Brazil

September 17, 2005
Salvador da Bahia Aboard the MV Explorer

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

After eating breakfast this morning on the open deck in the early morning sun Megan and I went up to the library to work on some schoolwork. Actually Megan did the work, while I helped her find some sources from the library. I was shocked, though thrilled, to find that the library has both the Discourse on Colonialism by Cesairè and Black Skin, White Masks by Frantz Fanon. They are without a doubt two of the best pieces on colonization and for them to be apart of the somewhat limited shipboard library is incredibly nice. I had thought that sources for projects would be somewhat lacking, but the library has proven to be very useful and comprehensive in its coverage.

Megan finished her project shortly before lunch, though she still thinks it needs some tweaking. We found ourselves for the second time today enjoying the deck for our noontime meal and rushed back to our rooms to change and head up to the pool. Once again we enjoyed our personal deck, for there were no other sunbathers, and it felt so wonderful to lie on a lounge and relax by the pool. The water was quite cold, but it felt so good in the heat of the Brazilian sun. We probably stayed out for about two hours before returning to our cabin to shower and do some reading that is scheduled between South Africa and Kenya. I feel as if I did not get much sun, but it is much better than being burnt. We used SPF 45 and thought that the rays were very intense, as our knees seemed to be turning red before our very eyes. Still, it did the trick, and though I feel no tanner, I also feel no redder.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

This morning I spent three hours in the library typing and researching the final elements of my presentation for Travelers’ Journals. I found Aimé Césaire’s Discourse on Colonialism and Frantz Fanon’s Black Skin, White Masks, two essays I absolutely love and was surprised to find squeezed within the shelves of books. I believe I will have to purchase these two books for my own personal library at some point in my life. I also utilized another book on Candomble, which was quite fabulous in detailing the transportation of Yoruba beliefs to Bahia. I officially finished my presentation and have to add only three more photos from my stay in Brazil to the PowerPoint. Lastly, I will practice the speech over and over and over for the next several days.

Went to lunch and found myself up at the pool deck around noon. Not one student there, not one at all on such a wonderful day. The weather is more perfect than anywhere else I have ever been in the world. Hot days, humidity nonexistent and the most perfect Bahian nights that are cool and calm. Gentle breezes find their way into the traffic of airwaves throughout the course of the day and I almost fell asleep in the peace and calm on my own private pool deck.

Before dinner I went up to the front deck to take some photos of the sunset and the last evening in Brazil. What wonderful photos. I have discovered more about my camera and some different settings that really help to enhance the photography. Overall I am really pleased with the photos and would love to be able to post or email some home, but as yet I am unsuccessful each time I try such an endeavor.

Heather writes, “We went up to deck seven forward, and walked about in the cool breeze taking a couple of photos of the beautiful sunset, around five thirty, and the boats with sails furled in the pinkish tint of the evening sun. Then it was back to the Garden Lounge and dinner in the breeze of the Brazilian night with the lights of the ship and the harbor as a relaxing end to our wonderful stay in Bahia. Back in our cabin we prepared our laundry for tomorrow is laundry day at last. We managed to fit it all in one bag, and I did some artwork in bright pink sharpie on the front – just wanted to brighten the laundry crew’s day from the boredom of white bangs and I figured they needed a thank you.”

Heather and I ate dinner on the back deck as the sun melted like the chocolate ice cream we had for dessert into the calm of the blue sea. Ormond, of course, brought the two scoops of chocolate ice cream with lots of chocolate sprinkles right out to us as I believe he will now deliver anything chocolate to our table. Ormond insisted on four scoops but alas settled on two, though I am sure an extra half scoop found its way into the bowl.

We took some photos of the ship today, as it is extremely empty and seems like the best opportunity to take shots of the classrooms and main areas that are crowded on a daily basis. In the union a banner is hung that reads, “Welcome Archbishop and Mrs. Tutu”.

Heather writes, “It has been truly unforgettable and although I am looking forward to the sway of the sea on these eight days to South Africa, and our upcoming adventures, I am sad to leave someplace that has become so special and meaningful. I will never forget what a wonderful time we had here and the incredible people and culture of such an amazing port city. It is pretty unbelievable that we still have eight ports left, and yet I feel so hesitant to leave one behind. So I would like to pass on a parting quote to this amazing place, “In the world through which I travel, I am endlessly creating myself.” On to more creating; goodbye Brazil. I will miss you.”

I am ready for a couple days at sea, eight actually, and would only like to conclude by saying that I loved Brazil and Salvador da Bahia still possesses a special charm that I am not sure I will ever truly be able to describe. Of course, it is a city, with disturbing alleyways and Portuguese graffiti. In that respect it mimics the New York skyline that it reminds me of exactly. Bye bye multicolored buildings of the Pelourinho and bye bye Brazil.

Shopping Trip

We have been a little blog happy in Brazil, especially since we have not gone on any overnight trips and have easy access to the Internet. There is an individual posting for each day in Bahia so if you have not read anything about our adventures don’t forget to start reading at “A Very Special Day,” and then “Itaparica Island,” and “An Unexpected Excursion,” before reading about today. If you don’t have time to read it all, “A Very Special Day” should be the selected reading of choice as it is perhaps the most significant experience to date. Happy reading! And drop us a comment.

September 16, 2005
Mercado Modelo

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

We slept in again this morning and woke up around seven thirty. I still cannot believe how late the trip finished last night and was so glad to climb into the soft sheets of my bed. I had an omelet for breakfast for the first time during the voyage. It was very good with ham and cheese and a nice accompaniment to my raisin bran cereal, though I did not have my usual cinnamon raisin bread with butter and strawberry jelly. I am definitely enjoying my breakfasts on the ship, so much so that it is very difficult to wait out the early morning routine before breakfast. We have a lot of fun talking to the staff in the Garden Lounge, especially Dimitar from Bulgaria, and Ormond, from where else, St. Vincent, so of course we are good friends.

They know that we enjoy a small glass of orange juice for breakfast and often bring it without asking, and that we love to sit by the tall windows to look out at sea. On one occasion they reserved the last table by the window for us when we appeared in the line and we were so surprised that the reserved table was ours. We could not believe it. They also like to joke with us about our dessert tastes, of which they know chocolate chips are our favorite and the occasional chocolate brownie, and are very diligent about bringing us dessert when they are sure it is something we can’t live without. But I will let you know when the cookies ever appear. We have a running joke about raiding the bakery, and sometimes Ormond tells some jokes that if answered correctly would result in a chocolate chip cookie reward. But where am I going with this? Obviously it has something to do with chocolate, though I am skipping forward to the evening hours. It has been some time since I have actually had chocolate and I have to say that I don’t think I could wait anymore. We went up to the pool bistro this evening to purchase water and a chocolate treat – Megan choose peanut M&M’s, and I a 3 Musketeers. I have never tasted anything so good in my life. I know, Bomboy’s Candy is delicious and homemade brownies, but that is when you are at home and have those things available to you.

I started my day by downloading some pictures from last night while Megan worked on her project, which consumed much of the morning hours. For lunch we met Jess and her roommate Amanda at the Garden Lounge and ate outside on the deck before departing for the market around one o’clock, purchasing stamps at the terminal before heading on our way.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

This morning I worked on my project for Travelers’ Journals. Having finished the five hundred-page novel about four days ago I have been observing Brazil’s landscape, people and atmosphere. I believe I will start my presentation with a general overview of the book, as I was the only individual to read the paperback volume. Themes and motifs will be dynamic elements to the relationship the novel has with Salvador da Bahia and I will most likely discuss civilization versus Europeanization as a major premise to understanding Brazil’s social system. In addition I will also address how the novel prepared me for Brazil and the Candomble elements with the book. The professor has conveyed to me that even though my presentation is originally stated in the syllabus as September 22, 2005, I may have an extension as the book is large and not many days follow our departure from Brazil to prepare for the lecture. I believe I will still be ready on the original date and have only to decide if my presentation will include PowerPoint material, which I believe that it will. Some of my photos from my stay could serve as wonderful depictions of elements within the novel.

Meeting Jess and Amanda from 2030 for lunch we soon found ourselves on our way to the Bahian handicraft market. Each of us with our on little shopping lists we remained in a group even during the chaotic bartering. It is wonderful to have people you can trust and have confidence in during such a frenzied atmosphere. With our purchases, and some extra reals left over, we headed back to the ship in less than two hours. Salvador is magnificent during the daytime and there is so much energy from the people.

Heather writes, “The market is so overwhelming even when you know what to expect, but Megan and I were on a mission and completed our shopping in about one hour. After reboarding the ship, Megan returned to her project while I wrote a couple of postcards home to take up to the Purser’s Office to mail, and return our passports because you are required to carry them in Brazil along with your immigration papers. I feel so good now that our postcards from both Venezuela and Brazil are mailed and look forward to hearing from home regarding their arrivals.”

Back in the port terminal we found ourselves making a last minute purchase for Dad, sorry no more hints. We bought twelve stamps for twenty-four reals. The postcards from Venezuela have been sent home and Brazil postcards will see their way into the mail later today.

Heather worked on accounting and balancing our purchases on a paper we keep in the safe while I worked some more on my presentation. She has been really supportive during this time and it feels so wonderful to have her additional help keeping things tidy in the cabin and labeling and packing our purchases without my assistance this time.

We went to dinner, where the dining room staff has completely mastered our names and does not even confuse us for each other. Ormond, from Saint Vincent who always smiles, as well as Dimitar have been tested quite a few times in which Heather and I have traded purses and such. Regardless they always get it right. We even have a running joke on chocolate chip cookies, as such Ormond now thinks we like everything chocolate and brought us a chocolate crumb pudding the other night for dessert. It was the consistency of cake and might I impart much better than the brownie.

After dinner we went up to the pool bar to purchase a one and a half liter bottle of water. Heather gave into the urge for real chocolate and purchased a Three Musketeers and I got peanut M&M’s. Even the attendant at the counter, who we have only seen once, I am sure (when we got chocolate chip cookies at the barbeque) knew our names.

I felt the water in the pool and as no one was up there at six o’clock in the growing dusk Heather and I decided to slip into our swimsuits and have a private dip. We went up for about an hour, in which we sat in the growing darkness alone, chatting about our plans for tomorrow, which include staying on the ship, relaxing by the pool, washing some laundry, and doing some papers.

Excerpt from Heather’s Journal:

After eating dinner, watching a beautiful sunset from our window table, we went up to the pool deck to make our purchases, of which I previously mentioned. It was deserted on the deck and we could not help but wish we were enjoying the warm pool water in the evening hours of Brazil. So, we went back to our room and changed into our suits to take an evening dip in the pool on what seemed our personal deck, except for the two crew working at the bistro. It was so beautiful looking off into the distance across the water at the lights of Itaparica and the many ocean faring vessels. The pool is very nice with a central area flanked by a ledge to sit on and sides shaped like a semi-circle. The water flows from the sides through holes cut in the ledge to the central pool with the swaying of the ship that makes a very relaxing sound of rushing water. It was around six o’clock when we went up, at which time it was already nearing dark, and almost seven when we returned to our cabin to shower and eat our much-desired treats.

We turned in early for a very quiet evening aboard the ship, rocking back and forth with the rising tide. Tomorrow is another very relaxing day in which we plan to work a little bit on some school related projects and enjoy for the first time the splendor of the pool deck in the warm rays of the sun.

Excerpt from Megan’s Journal:

We went back downstairs and showered, hopping into our beds to journal and eat our chocolate. We turned on the television, but no good movies, unless you like unclothed Indians skipping about the screen with leaf loincloths and lip plates stretching their mouths to enormously large portions.

I am ready for bed even though it is only seven thirty. I would love to check my email but as there is an hour difference I have a feeling mom and dad would only have had an hour since returning home from work to even look online at any new posting and emails we have sent during the day. I might sleep in a little tomorrow, having grabbed an extra box of cereal this morning for such an event. With an apple in the fridge and the cereal I should be able to make it until eleven thirty without being hungry.

Tomorrow around five thirty I would love to take some photos of the Brazilian sunset, as I have not done so yet. With it being the last day in Brazil I suspect many students will be returning from extended trips and there will be long lines to contend with. Desmond Tutu should be boarding tomorrow at some point, as he will be making the crossing to South Africa with us. I am eager to get back into classes and look forward to what amazing experiences await me in Capetown. Good night Brazil and good night cosmic void. Until tomorrow…